Porte d’Aix

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Often overlooked, the Porte d’Aix stands as a triumphal arch marking the old entry to Marseille. It connects the city to Aix-en-Provence. This magnificent structure before you embodies a rich history. It reflects shifting political tides in France.

The Porte d’Aix is also known as the Porte Royale. Its design was conceived by Michel-Robert Penchaud. He drew inspiration from the grand triumphal arches of the Roman Empire. Imagine arriving here in the early 19th century. You would have been greeted by this imposing monument.

Initially, the arch was planned in 1784. It was meant to honor Louis XVI. It also commemorated the Peace of Paris in 1783. This treaty ended the American Revolutionary War. However, political changes put the project on hold.

In 1823, the mayor of Marseille, Marquis de Montgrand, revived the project. This revival was under a royal charter from Louis XVIII. Now, the arch would celebrate Louis-Antoine’s victory. He won at the Battle of Trocadero. This victory led to Ferdinand VII’s restoration as king of Spain.

The first stone was laid in 1825. It was dedicated to the royal family. Three years later, the aqueduct was demolished to make way for Place d’Aix. Yet, political shifts continued to disrupt progress.

Finally, under Louis-Philippe, construction finished in 1839. The monument’s purpose evolved. It no longer solely celebrated the Duke of Angoulême’s campaign. Instead, it embraced the broader theme of French victories.

Look closely at the main facades. You will see depictions of significant battles. These include Fleurus, Héliopolis, Marengo, and Austerlitz. These scenes immortalize France’s military achievements.

Michel-Robert Penchaud likely modeled the Porte d’Aix after the Arch of Titus in Rome. Other Roman arches like the Arches of Trajan and Constantine also contributed elements. The Italian mason Gaëtan Cantini oversaw the stonework. Parisian sculptor Antoine-André Marneuf created the ornamental sculptures.

David d’Angers and Etienne-Jules Ramey were commissioned for statuary and bas-reliefs. The bas-reliefs under the portico represent the call to defend liberty and the return of victorious heroes. Eight giant allegorical statues representing the Virtues once stood in the attic.

Sadly, the original stone wasn’t weatherproof. The statues began to erode. In 1937, six heads fell onto the street. During the 2003 restoration, only four statues were kept. These were the ones by David d’Angers on the north facade.

The Porte d’Aix stands at just under 18 meters tall and wide. This fits it precisely within a square. This makes it one of the perfect geometric forms. Its design reflects the harmony of ancient monuments.

Today, the Porte d’Aix might be easily missed. Yet, it remains a testament to Marseille’s complex history. It reflects the city’s resilience and its connection to broader European events. Take a moment to appreciate this triumphal arch. It embodies the spirit of Marseille.

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