What if the walls of Pondok Cina could talk? They would tell tales of Chinese traders seeking respite. This is Pondok Cina. It is a place with a name that echoes its past. Imagine a time long before Jakarta’s towering skyscrapers. Visualize merchants traveling from afar.
Back in the 17th century, Chinese traders journeyed to Batavia. They sought opportunities in the Dutch East Indies. Many settled in Ommelanden around Batavia. Tangerang to the west and Depok to the south became magnets.
Cornelis Chastelein, a VOC merchant, shaped Depok’s destiny. In 1691, he acquired land from Tio Tiong Ko. He was a Chinese landlord. Depok was a two-hour horse-drawn carriage ride from Batavia. Travelers passed through a place already known as Pondok Cina.
The name “Pondok Cina” appeared on maps as early as the 1600s. Historians like Adolf Heuken link the name to an old house. This house now stands in Margo City’s courtyard. It was called Pondok Tjina in 1690. A Chinese man owned it then.
Abraham Van Riebeeck noted Pondok Tjina in 1704. He was a Dutch merchant who became a VOC leader. He traveled to assess the southern region. His journey went from Batavia through Pondok Cina.
Local folklore tells a different story. It claims Pondok Cina was once Kampung Bojong. Chinese people built simple huts or “pondok” in the forest. The Chinese landlord of Kampung Bojong welcomed them. Thus, the area became Pondok Cina. In 1918, Kampung Bojong officially became Kampung Pondok Cina.
Regardless of the name’s origin, Pondok Cina grew. It became a temporary stop for Chinese traders. This was in the early 1700s. Chastelein needed supplies for his Depok project. Batavia was too far. So, he invited traders to Depok. The VOC saw Depok as a source of produce for Batavia.
Traders in Depok had to follow Chastelein’s rules. As landlord, he held special rights. He banned Chinese people from living in Depok. His will stated this ban. He thought the Chinese had bad habits.
Chastelein allowed Chinese people to trade only from morning to evening. After his death in 1714, his former slaves carried on his rules. They managed the land and upheld the ban.
Going back to Glodok in Batavia was not an option. It was too far. Pondok Cina was outside Depok’s boundaries. Chinese people could reside there. It was a strategic spot. It lay on the main route to three markets. These were Cimanggis, Cisalak, and Pasar Lama.
These markets grew in the 1800s. The center of power shifted to Weltevreden. The Dutch government took over from the VOC. The Governor-General moved to Buitenzorg now known as Bogor. The Batavia-Depok-Buitenzorg road improved. A train line was built from Manggarai to Depok and Buitenzorg.
Goods flowed easily between Batavia, Depok, and Buitenzorg. New settlements arose. People traveling to Buitenzorg often stopped in Depok. The Chinese population in the Dutch East Indies rose in 1860. Most lived in Java. Many were drawn to trade in Depok’s markets.
These markets became melting pots. Chinese traders met Depok Asal people. These were Muslim Betawi locals. They also met Depok Asli people. These were descendants of Chastelein’s slaves. People from Ambon and Manado also came. The markets offered open interactions. Chastelein’s rules remained until 1942. The Japanese occupation ended them.
Pondok Cina never became a Chinatown like Glodok. The Chinese population dwindled in the 20th century. Some moved to Pasar Cisalak. Others vanished. Research on this is scarce.
Today, descendants of Chinese traders are hard to find. The old house and a Chinese cemetery remain. Their cultural traditions faded. Imlek celebrations are mainly in malls. The Chinese are like “people without history.” Yet, they helped shape Depok’s story.