How many sheep’s heads do you think were tossed into this very spot? Welcome to Plaza Vicente López y Planes in the heart of Recoleta. Before it became the elegant green space we see today this plaza had a much less savory past. It was once known as the “Hueco de las Cabecitas” or “Hole of the Little Heads”. Why? Because this area was a slaughterhouse. The heads of sheep and cattle were discarded here creating a rather gruesome landscape.
Imagine the stench. Imagine the flies. This was not a place of beauty or leisure. This was a place of work. A place of death. Yet from this humble beginning this plaza transformed. It bears the name of Vicente López y Planes the author of the Argentine National Anthem. A fitting tribute considering the plaza’s rebirth. The transformation was not sudden. It took years. There were also a small lagoon and brick kilns here. It was quite something else before the area became a popular plaza.
The plaza’s landscaping follows the designs of Carlos Thays a French-born Argentine landscape architect. He prioritized native Argentine flora. Look around you. Notice the tipas and jacarandas. Their vibrant blooms paint a picture of beauty. Thays’ genius created not only a beautiful but also a practical design.
But the plaza is not just about plants. It’s about history. In 1909 Santiago Ramón Estrada a renowned singer walked these very paths. He sang songs that would later become national favorites. This spot witnessed the early steps of a musical legend.
The beautiful eclectic church with Gothic and Romanesque details stands proudly on Montevideo Street. A votive gift from a wealthy family it’s a testament to faith and generosity. The church is officially called the Eucharistic Heart of Jesus but is commonly known as “The Slave”.
So next time you visit Plaza Vicente López y Planes remember its humble beginnings. From the “Hole of the Little Heads” to a vibrant green space. It’s a story of transformation. It’s a story of beauty. It’s a story of Argentina itself. Take a moment to breathe in the history. Let the beauty of this special place enchant you.