Place Jean Jaurès

Did the name “La Plaine” ever strike you as odd, standing here on Place Jean Jaurès? It should. We’re on a plateau, not a plain. The name is a misinterpretation of the Provençal word “lou plan,” meaning plateau. Place Jean Jaurès, the heart of the vibrant Plaine district, has held many names and even more stories. Imagine knights preparing for the Crusades right here in the 13th century. Picture royalty, like François I returning from the Battle of Marignan, greeted on this very spot. This was Marseille’s parade ground, its field of Mars. Centuries later, in 1886, Louis Capazza and Alphonse Fondère began their daring balloon journey across the Mediterranean, taking off from Place Jean Jaurès and landing in Corsica. A bas-relief nearby commemorates their feat. Place Jean Jaurès wasn’t always so grand. It was once Place Saint-Michel. The name changed in 1919 to honor Jean Jaurès, assassinated in 1914. For decades, starting in 1860, the Saint-Lazare fair filled this space, having moved from its original location on La Canebière. There was even a basin in the center of the square where children could take a “tour du monde” in a small boat for a few sous. Jean Giono, in his novel “Noé,” described it perfectly, mentioning the little boat, the lazily rowing sailor, and the long, delightful pauses during the voyage. In 1953, Place Jean Jaurès became the site of another historical moment when Gaston Deferre inaugurated Marseille’s first traffic light here. Today, Place Jean Jaurès remains a bustling hub. It’s the second largest public space in Marseille and connects the 1st, 5th, and 6th arrondissements. Though often described as noisy and even dirty, its energy is infectious. Place Jean Jaurès is a place where history lingers, a place of grand events and simple joys, a place that captures the very spirit of Marseille.