A Parisian afternoon sun bathes Place Carpeaux. Its warmth touches the red brick buildings. They surround this tranquil haven.
Place Carpeaux is more than just a square. It’s a pocket of history nestled in the 18th arrondissement. It stands on land once occupied by the old Montmartre cemetery. The cemetery known as the “Northern Cemetery” closed in 1879. That same year the square received its name. It’s a tribute to Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux. He was a renowned French sculptor. Considered one of the three greatest sculptors of the 19th century alongside François Rude and Auguste Rodin. Carpeaux frequented Montmartre. This charming square reflects his legacy.
The square didn’t open to the public until 1907. The buildings surrounding Place Carpeaux are notable. They are affordable housing. Built between 1909 and 1919. The architects were Georges Debrie and Adolphe Bocage. They built them for the Alexandre-et-Julie-Weill foundation. The foundation’s initials AWJ are on a building. It’s at number 205 Rue Marcadet. The materials used for these buildings are striking. Red bricks and Paris stone. They signify affordable social housing.
Place Carpeaux offers more than just beautiful architecture. It has recreational areas for everyone. There are sports areas for football basketball rollerblading and ping-pong. There’s a playground with swings and a sandbox. Even chessboards for quiet games. Two water fountains provide refreshing respite. Public restrooms offer convenience. A music kiosk hosts concerts in good weather.
A bust of Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux himself stands proudly in the square. It’s a stone bust sculpted by Léon Fagel in 1929. It sits atop a tall stele designed by Henri Bans. Two bronze medallions are on the stele too. One represents Charles Carpeaux. He was the sculptor’s eldest son. He died in Indochina in 1904. The other medallion is of Louis Carpeaux. The sculptor’s younger son. He died in 1929. Louise Clément-Carpeaux made the medallions. She was the sculptor’s daughter. She was a sculptor herself. They were unveiled at a ceremony in 1930. Paul Doumer attended the ceremony. The square also features a statue. It’s a full-length statue of a Montmartroise. It depicts her with a lover of Théophile Camel. It was sculpted in 1907.
Place Carpeaux is also a place of inspiration. The singer-songwriter Vincent Delerm mentioned it in his song. It’s called Le Baiser Modiano. It’s from his album Kensington Square (2004). He was inspired by his childhood visits. His grandmother lived on Rue Marcadet above Place Carpeaux. The Nobel Prize winner Patrick Modiano frequented Place Carpeaux in his youth. He was surprised by Delerm’s mention of it in his song.
As you leave Place Carpeaux. Take a moment to reflect. This unassuming square holds layers of history. It’s a testament to art architecture and the enduring spirit of Montmartre.