Across the shimmering waters, Penyengat Cape beckons. Penyengat Cape isn’t just a geographical point. It’s a gateway to a forgotten world, a realm of sultans and scholars, of epic poems and fierce battles. Penyengat Island, crowned by Penyengat Cape, holds the remnants of a glorious past. Once the heart of the Johore Empire, it pulsated with intellectual and cultural energy. This small island, a mere 15-minute boat ride from Tanjung Pinang, boasts a history that rivals that of great civilizations.
Penyengat Cape witnessed the rise and fall of the Riau-Lingga Sultanate. It saw the island transform into a fortress, a sanctuary for royalty and a hub for literary giants. Here, Raja Ali Haji, a national hero of Indonesia, penned the first Malay grammar book, “Pedoman Bahasa,” forever shaping the language. His masterpiece, “Gurindam Dua Belas,” an iconic Malay poem, was also born on this island. Imagine the bustling intellectual scene, where scholars of literature, agriculture, astronomy, medicine, religion, and politics gathered. They formed the Rusydiah Club, an exclusive circle of brilliant minds. Penyengat Island, also known as “Taman Penulis” or “Bustan al-Katibin” (Garden of Writers), fostered a vibrant literary culture that embraced even princesses, fishermen, and servants.
Penyengat Cape also witnessed pivotal moments in history. Sultan Mahmud Shah II presented the island to his wife, Engku Raja Hamidah, as dowry. This union strengthened the bond between the Malays and the Bugis. Their tombs, along with those of other royal figures, rest on the island, silent witnesses to a rich past. Walk through the remnants of the Grand Mosque of the Sultan of Riau, its striking yellow walls a testament to its history. Legend whispers that egg whites were used in its construction, just like the Masjid Sultan in Kampong Glam, Singapore. The Istana Tengku Bilik echoes the architecture of Istana Kampong Glam, now the Malay Heritage Centre. These architectural echoes speak of a shared heritage, a connection that transcends time and distance.
Today, Penyengat Island slumbers, a tranquil haven. Working adults seek opportunities elsewhere. They return only for special occasions, bringing the island back to life. Young families, the elderly, and those who find work on the island remain. The island’s historical sites—the tombs, the Custom Hall (Balai Adat), forts, palaces, and ruins—stand as poignant reminders of its vibrant past. As you stand at Penyengat Cape, let the whispers of history wash over you. Imagine the clash of swords, the murmur of scholars, and the poetry of a bygone era. Penyengat Cape, more than just a scenic viewpoint, is a portal to a world waiting to be rediscovered.