Pé Pequeno

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“Little Africa” it was lovingly called. Little Africa or Pequena África in Portuguese is a museum of Afro-Brazilian culture. It stands here in Rio de Janeiro.

Little Africa became known after the outlaw of the slave trade in Brazil in 1831. The abolition of slavery outright did not come for another 50 years. Between 1850 and 1920 freed slaves remained working in the area. Blacks and freed Africans from Bahia traveled to Little Africa. They sought work and a sense of community. The area welcomed blacks from all over the country. Houses were established throughout the area. Places to eat and gather were built. Here people practiced African religions.

However Rio’s African heritage is often overlooked. Despite the renovation of the port area and the creation of an African Heritage Circuit the history remains largely unknown.

Pedra do Sal is a popular samba spot. It is the oldest continually inhabited black neighborhood in Rio de Janeiro. The community was officially recognized as a quilombo in December 2005. Pedra do Sal is a strong source of Afro-Brazilian culture. The area is credited as the birthplace of both samba and Carnival. The spot gets its name from the large stone. Salt and trades were sold here when the bay reached its shores. The stone was used to dry salt.

Historian Sadakne Baroudi says that the community of Pedra do Sal formed its own government. They voted their kings queens and courts each year. This structure eventually became the samba schools of modern-day Rio. The memory of Pedra do Sal is preserved. Traditions such as African-influenced religions run strong. Candomblé and music are examples.

Below Brazil’s first favela is the Rua do Valongo. This road runs from Largo do Depósito. Enslaved Africans were kept in fattening houses here. They were fed to increase their market value. Then they were sold at the Valongo slave market. Houses and shops along this road were also used to sell slaves. Archeologists have discovered household artifacts around the area. These artifacts tell of daily life along the road.

In 1906 a hanging garden was designed by the architect Luis Rei. It was built where the road once stood. It was designed to imitate similar spaces in European metropoles. Today it holds classical-looking statues.

When enslaved Africans arrived they were often malnourished ill and injured. They were kept in “fattening houses”. Largo do Depósito was the center of these warehouses. Slaves were kept here and prepared to be sold. Today Largo do Deposito is a stop on the Porto Maravilha heritage tour.

The archaeological remains of Cais do Valongo mark Rio de Janeiro’s most active slave market. Between 1774 and 1831 an estimated 500000 to 700000 enslaved Africans ended their journey here. In 2011 the project revealed the multiple layers of the Valongo Wharf. Various artifacts were brought over by the enslaved Africans.

Very close to Valongo Wharf is the Cemitério dos Pretos Novos. Between 20000 to 30000 enslaved men and women were buried here. They did not survive the voyage from Africa or died shortly after arrival. The bodies were crushed and thrown into a mass grave. The New Blacks Cemetery is considered to be the largest slave cemetery in the Americas.

Little Africa is a reminder of the past. It is a celebration of Afro-Brazilian culture.

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