“Who needs a time machine when we have Passage Gilbert?” I ask. It is more than just an ordinary street. It is an experience.
Passage Gilbert is found in Saint-Maur-des-Fossés. Its reference number is 940684210Z. The postcode is 94210. It is so unique that it has a Wikidata number: Q105608814.
But let’s delve deeper. Let’s journey into the world of covered passages in Paris. These passages are early forms of shopping arcades. They blossomed in the first half of the 19th century. In 1867, Paris boasted about 183 covered passages. Sadly, Haussmann’s renovation led to the demolition of many. Only 25 survived into the 21st century. Almost all are on the Right Bank of the Seine.
These covered passages share common traits. They link at least two streets. Glass ceilings arch overhead. They are pedestrianized. Artificial lights illuminate the night. Private owners maintain them. Ornamentation and decoration abound. Small shops line the ground floors. Apartments often occupy the upper floors. Originally, each passage had a shoe-cleaning artist. They kept the passages clean.
Culturally, these passages served as social hubs. Alfred de Musset frequented Galerie Véro-Dodat. He visited a famous actress there. Eugène-Francois Vidocq lived in Galerie Vivienne in 1840. He was the father of criminology. He also created the French police system. Louis-Ferdinand Céline lived in Passage Choiseul as a child. Walter Benjamin explored these passages in his work “Das Passagen-Werk”. It was published posthumously.
One unique passage stands out. Passage Jouffroy was the first heated Parisian covered mall. During winter, people enjoyed the warm air. It rose through grills in the floor. Imagine ladies warming their skirts over these grills. Passage Jouffroy was also the first to use metal and glass extensively. This made it brighter than other passages.
Passage Jouffroy retains genuine parts from its 1848 opening. The glass roof and floor remain. Shop fronts still bear their original numbering. Entering from Boulevard Montmartre, even numbers are on the right. Odd numbers are on the left. The Galerie Fayet is number 34. Two hotels and two clocks date back to the beginning. Clocks helped travelers reach the coach terminal. The inscription “MAISON GILBERT” is visible. This company removed mud from visitors’ shoes.
Several shops found success in Passage Jouffroy. Chapellerie Delion hat shop lasted 112 years. From 1850 to 1880, the Café des Princes was Paris’s best café. The Chinese shadow puppetry theater “Le Séraphin” was also popular. In 1853, the first Parisian fast food restaurant opened there. It was named LE BUFFET AMERICAIN.
A famous gold bar lottery occurred from 1850 to 1853. A large gold bar was displayed. It drew crowds. No one ever won the gold bar. Instead, winners received boat tickets to the United States. It was the gold rush era. About 3293 people left France for this adventure.
Many famous people frequented Passage Jouffroy. Chopin visited his favorite Pleyel piano shop. Georges Méliès performed magic at the Musée Grévin. Berlioz, Balzac, Baudelaire, and others visited the café-concerts. Photographer Robert Doisneau captured scenes there. Writer Aragon described it as a place between dream and reality.
Several movies filmed scenes in Passage Jouffroy. These include THE TOURIST with Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp. Other films include L’IBIS ROUGE and CET OBSCUR OBJET DU DESIR.
So, while Passage Gilbert itself may not be a bustling arcade like Passage Jouffroy. It echoes the charm and history of these Parisian gems.