“There is none other but a house of God and this a gate of the heavens.” That inscription above the door of the Parroquia San Juan Bautista welcomes all. We’re standing before the Parroquia San Juan Bautista. It is a striking example of Spanish colonial history. It is also one of the oldest surviving houses of worship in Mexico City.
The Parroquia San Juan Bautista stands on the south side of Plaza Hidalgo. It is known locally as la Iglesia de Coyoacán. This Catholic church was once a mission. It is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. Spanish missionaries first introduced Christianity here. They taught the indigenous Nahuatl people in the early 16th century.
Look at the cobblestone square in front of the church entrance. It once extended into what is now Plaza Centenario. During the colonial period, the square hosted religious dramatizations. These performances were known as autos sacramentales. Missionaries adopted a clever strategy. They spread the new faith by incorporating indigenous rituals. These rituals had similarities to Christianity. This helped the local population transition to the new religion.
Notice the four-story bell tower to the west of the main church. It was added later, in the 18th century. The tower was once topped by a dome, lantern, and cross. Sadly, an earthquake in September 2017 caused the dome to collapse.
The façade is relatively plain. It is in the Herrerian style. This style is named after Spanish architect Juan de Herrera. Herrerian architecture features clean geometric lines. It lacks ornamentation. Look closely. You can see grooved classical pilasters. Ionic columns are set into the face of the church.
Above the door, observe the bas-relief. It displays the coat of arms of the Roman Catholic Order of Preachers. They are better known as the Dominicans. The fleur-de-lis cross symbolizes the 12 apostles. Another carving depicts a monogram of the Virgin Mary. It shows a crown with the intertwined letters A and M. They stand for Ave Maria.
Construction of the Parroquia San Juan Bautista occurred sporadically. Work took place between 1527 and 1552. The land was donated to conquistador Hernán Cortés. The native Ixtolinque chief gave the land. He was baptized into the Catholic faith. He took the name Juan de Guzmán. The Dominican order directed the construction. The church was built upon the site of a calmecac. This was a school for the sons of Aztec nobility. Ruins of the school still exist beneath the cloister. The original structure was designed as a basilica. It had a simple rectangular floor plan like temple architecture.
In 1934, the government declared the church a historic monument.
Stepping inside, notice the exuberant interior. It was modified between 1926 and 1947. The design reflects the prevailing Baroque style. The church was reduced to a single nave. It is flanked by seven small chapels on either side.
Among the most striking works are the ceiling frescoes. They depict scenes from the life of Christ. Catalan painter Juan de Fabregat created them. Angels perch high above the column capitals lining the walls. The Chapel of the Rosary is magnificent. Its high altar is lavishly decorated. Gold leaf embellishes it with a warm glow.
Pause to admire the vitrine. It houses el Cristo de los Milagros. This Christ of the Miracles features a mystical assemblage. Gold and pewter milagros cover the statue. These healing charms are pinned to a sea of red ribbons. Milagros representing specific body parts are used in prayers. People pray for the improvement of conditions like arthritis or a bad knee. Some milagros even include photos of the person to be healed.
Other works appeal to the emotions of the faithful. They feature biblical depictions of the lives of Franciscan saints. These include the Vision of Saint Teresa. Also displayed is the taking of the habit of Santa Clara. The stigmatizations of San Francisco, Saint Domingo, and San Juan are also shown.
Passing through a doorway, you enter a small chapel. A small group of students often sketches here. This chapel leads to an arched arcade of Tuscan columns. This is the cloister of the convent. Friar Juan de la Cruz may have founded it. He was an indigenous man who spoke Castilian Spanish. Within the convent’s walls, Nahuatl people were baptized. They were taught the tenets of the Christian faith.
Like the neighborhood itself, the Parroquia San Juan Bautista is full of rich culture. If you find yourself in Coyoacán, explore this beautiful church. You will be glad you did. It is a testament to faith, art, and history.