Parroquia San Isidro Labrador

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Do you notice how the Avenida San Isidro Labrador uniquely begins and ends on Avenida Cabildo itself? Here before us stands the Parroquia San Isidro Labrador. It shares its name with this unusual avenue in the Saavedra neighborhood.

The land beneath the Parroquia San Isidro Labrador was donated by the Martínez Justo family. Concepción Unzué provided financial support for its construction. She dedicated it to the memory of her husband Carlos Casares. He had served as governor of Buenos Aires.

On May 15 1930 the first stone was laid. Just over a year and a half later on December 15 1931 the church was officially established. Santiago Copello the auxiliary bishop of the Archdiocese of Buenos Aires at that time performed the ceremony. Carlos Massa an architect renowned for his church designs in Buenos Aires was responsible for the architectural plans of Parroquia San Isidro Labrador.

The structure of Parroquia San Isidro Labrador is impressive. It measures 47 meters long and 20 meters wide. The street level was lowered by three meters adding to its elevated and majestic appearance. Architects often describe its facade as orthodox neocolonial blending Spanish and indigenous artistic elements. To the left a bell tower rises. It features a clock and is topped with a small neo-Byzantine dome. This dome is adorned with polychrome ceramics and crowned with an iron cross.

The double wooden doors and an ornate balcony above serve as eye-catching details. These appear as bas-reliefs on the facade. Columns attached to the wall frame the entrance. Stepping into the atrium one’s attention is immediately drawn to the beautiful stained-glass windows of the inner door.

Inside Parroquia San Isidro Labrador follows a Latin cross layout. The interior lacks extensive wall coverings. Instead small majolica tiles depict the Stations of the Cross. The church has a main nave and two side aisles. The ceiling is a barrel vault shape intersected by a hexagonal dome.

In 1971 changes occurred. The original altarpieces that imitated colonial furniture were replaced. Argentine artist Raúl Soldi created a large mural. It portrays the child Jesus held by two angels. About 300 ceramic tiles form the artwork. Soldi also made a collage. It depicts an angel with a trumpet.

Near the baptismal font is an oil painting. It shows Saint Michael the Archangel battling two demons. San Isidro the patron saint of farmers was born in Madrid in the late 11th century. His name is derived from Isidoro honoring Saint Isidore of Seville the Archbishop. His work as a farmer led to his popular name Isidro Labrador. He died in 1130. His feast day is celebrated every May 15.

Interestingly Parroquia San Isidro Labrador shares its design with another church. This twin church is located in Carlos Casares. Concepción Unzué also funded that church. Carlos Massa designed it in 1941 nine years after completing this one. Both churches were almost identical in their original design. However both have undergone renovations since their construction.

The exterior is nearly an exact copy. It mirrors the temple of the old University of San Francisco Xavier. That university was founded on March 27 1624 in Chuquisaca Bolivia now known as Sucre. However the Bolivian university has two towers not one. Historical figures of the May Revolution such as Mariano Moreno Bernardo de Monteagudo and Juan José Castelli studied at that university.

Soldi even incorporated a secret into his artwork. He used the face of art critic Jorge Romero Brest who was an enemy of him for one of the demons in the painting. He even included Romero Brest’s characteristic pipe.

Attached to the Parroquia San Isidro Labrador is the parish school building. Together they create a picturesque colonial scene.

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