Beyond these gates lies a place of rest and remembrance. We are here at Panteon San Francisco II. This is not just any cemetery. It’s a journey into 19th-century Mexico. Here lie presidents and heroes.
Panteon San Fernando is one of Mexico City’s oldest preserved cemeteries. It operated from 1832 to 1872. The cemetery shows 19th-century funerary art. It holds the remains of important Mexicans.
In earlier times people were buried inside churches. It was believed this helped them reach heaven. Rich people were buried closest to the altar. Poorer people were further away. The Church of San Fernando also followed this custom. Viceroys Matías de Gálvez y Gallardo and his son Bernardo are buried near the altar. They ordered the building of Chapultepec Castle.
The archbishop of Mexico wanted to stop burials in churches. He feared diseases. He wanted cemeteries built away from houses. Santa Paula Cemetery was the first used this way.
The Apostolic College of San Fernando also started using its atrium for burials. Only friars and rich people could be buried there. Around 1832 construction began on the current Panteon San Fernando. This was thanks to Don Ignacio Cortina Chávez. He collected money for the project.
In 1833 General Antonio López de Santa Anna said all private cemeteries must open to the public. This was because of a cholera epidemic. Panteon San Fernando became a public cemetery. But cholera patients could not be buried here.
Panteon San Fernando became popular with upper-class families. It was clean and orderly. Funeral prices went up. Only the richest people could afford to be buried here. You will see tombs of politicians and military men. The best years for San Fernando were between 1850 and 1870.
The Fernandino friars owned Panteon San Fernando. They took care of burials and masses. In 1859 the government took over the cemeteries. It became the Pantheon of Illustrious Men. Heroes like Melchor Ocampo were buried here. Panteon San Fernando was the first cemetery for illustrious men in Mexico City.
President Juarez ordered the closing of cemeteries within the city limits. In 1872 Panteon San Fernando reopened for the last burial. That was when President Benito Juárez was buried here.
Sebastián Lerdo de Tejada ordered a new pantheon to be built. It was called the Rotunda of Illustrious Men. Panteon San Fernando closed. It only preserved the remains of those already buried there. In 1900 there were plans to build a National Pantheon behind it. The Mexican Revolution stopped this project.
In 1935 Panteon San Fernando became a historical monument. In 2006 it became a museum. The museum is under the care of the Secretariat of Culture.
Some buried here have haunting stories. Francisco Zarco’s corpse was stolen. A friend brought it home to talk to it. Miguel Miramón was shot. His wife kept his heart in a reliquary. Some say the statue of Juan de la Granja moves. Masonic symbols decorate the tombs. Many were Freemasons.
Visiting Panteon San Fernando is free. It’s open every day. You can visit at night on the last Wednesday of each month. It’s a journey through Mexican history.