Palais des arts

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“Palais Carli,” the locals call it. The Palais des Arts is a treasure often missed by tourists. It sits a little outside the usual Old Port bustle. But for those in the know, it holds a special place in Marseille’s heart.

This Palais des Arts stands on Place Auguste et François Carli. Its construction spanned a decade from 1864 to 1874. Architect Henri Espérandieu designed it. He also designed Notre Dame de la Garde.

Originally, the Palais des Arts was planned to house the municipal library. It would also host the School of Fine Arts of Marseille. These institutions outgrew their space in the old Couvent des Bernardines. The convent also housed a high school and museums. Space was needed. The Library and the School of Fine Arts would get a new building. The Museum of Fine Arts and the Museum of Natural History moved to the Palais Longchamp.

Espérandieu faced challenges. The land’s steep slope needed deep foundations. Sadly, Espérandieu did not live to see his vision completed. War and funding shortages delayed the work. His friends Gaudensi Allar and Joseph Letz completed the Palais des Arts. They respected his original plans.

Look closely at the façade. It tells the story of art through the ages. Ten busts of monarchs stand here. Each represents a key artistic period. Sesostris stands for Egyptian art. Pericles embodies the Parthenon. Augustus signifies Roman art. Constantine represents Byzantine art. Charlemagne shows Roman art. Saint Louis reflects Ogival art. Leo X stands for Italian art. Francis I shows the Renaissance. Louis XIV embodies French art. Napoleon I represents modern art with his Arc de Triomphe.

The Palais des Arts has a cubic shape. The materials differ inside and out. The main façade is made of Tarascon white stone. The inner courtyard features red bricks and stone. This pays tribute to French Renaissance architecture. Cartouches under the windows display famous architects’ names. Brunelleschi and Michelangelo are among them. The aisle at the back honors painters. Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, and Poussin are remembered. Inside, monuments pay tribute to Henri Espérandieu. André-Joseph Allar is also honored.

Today, the Conservatoire National de Région “Pierre Barbizet” resides here. The Fondation Regards de Provence also calls it home. The Palais des Arts continues its artistic legacy. Concerts and exhibitions are held regularly.

The Palais des Arts became a Historic Monument on November 18, 1997. The building shows a duality through its materials. The exterior contrasts with the interior. You will get different impressions depending on where you are. It is a place worth exploring. It offers a glimpse into Marseille’s rich cultural history. Take your time to appreciate this hidden gem.

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