Behold Palacio Salvo. It rises before us. This building is a testament to Montevideo’s vibrant history. It is also a symbol of architectural ambition.
The Palacio Salvo’s story began in the early 20th century. The Salvo brothers bought this land for 650,000 Uruguayan pesos. They wanted to create something special. The location was once home to the Confiteria La Giralda. Here, Gerardo Matos Rodríguez wrote the famous tango “La Cumparsita” in 1917. Today, Palacio Salvo honors this legacy. It houses the Tango Museum of Montevideo.
Mario Palanti designed Palacio Salvo. He was an Italian architect living in Buenos Aires. Palanti also designed the Palacio Barolo in Buenos Aires. Both buildings share similar features. Construction of Palacio Salvo lasted from 1925 to 1928.
Originally, the Salvo brothers intended Palacio Salvo to be a hotel. However, the hotel idea proved unprofitable. The building was then converted into offices and private residences. Palacio Salvo also became a hub for cultural activity. Since the 1930s, the skyscraper hosted meetings for Latin American artists. Critics, poets, actors, and dancers gathered here. They refined their craft in a large ballroom. Its floor featured an alchemical motif.
Palacio Salvo stands at the intersection of 18 de Julio Avenue and Plaza Independencia. It is 95 meters tall. It was briefly the tallest building in Latin America. The original plans included a lighthouse at the top. It would have a parabolic mirror and a rotating lamp. The lighthouse was replaced with antennas. These antennas brought the total height to 100 meters. The antennas were removed in November 2012.
Palanti’s design drew inspiration from Dante Alighieri’s “Divine Comedy”. Like the Palacio Barolo, Palacio Salvo is divided into sections. The lower floors represent “Hell”. The middle floors signify “Purgatory”. The top floors symbolize “Heaven”.
The architecture is eclectic. It combines Art Deco, Renaissance, Gothic, and Neoclassical elements. Some see the building as a machine rising above the city. Others view it as a Dantean beast. Metal ornaments resemble monsters and sea life. These allude to alchemical interests of the Middle Ages. The domes on the roof may symbolize an alchemical furnace.
Inside, one of the largest stained-glass windows depicts immigrants arriving in paradise. It’s inspired by Ilya Riepin’s painting “Burlaks on the Volga”.
Despite its grandeur, Palacio Salvo has faced criticism. Architect Le Corbusier considered it a “terrible monstrosity”. However, many recognize Palacio Salvo’s unique beauty.
Today, Palacio Salvo remains a symbol of Montevideo. It reflects a period of prosperity in the early 20th century. You can visit the Tango Museum. It showcases the history of “La Cumparsita” and Uruguayan Tango. Daily tours are available. They run from 10:30 to 13:30.