Ruins whisper secrets. Don’t they? Standing before the Palácio do Contador-Mor you feel the weight of centuries. This magnificent palace in Lisbon’s heart once housed the powerful Contador-Mor. He managed the kingdom’s finances. Imagine the bustling activity within these walls.
The Palácio do Contador-Mor’s history stretches back to the 16th century. A Jewish family the Gomes de Elvas initially rented the land. In 1606 King Philip III of Spain granted Luís Gomes de Elvas Coronel a noble title. This was in gratitude for his service. The king also changed the family name to Gomes da Mata. Simultaneously Luís received the title of High-Courier or Postmaster General. This cemented his importance in the kingdom’s commerce.
The southern wing of the Palácio do Contador-Mor was simple. That was until the 18th century. Luís Vitório de Sousa Coutinho da Matta the 9th Correio-Mor moved in around 1730. In 1735 his son José António da Matta de Sousa Coutinho reconstructed the courtyard. It still stands today. Major renovations began with the chapel. Its tower was completed in 1744. Cardinal Patriarch of Lisbon D. Tomás de Almeida consecrated the chapel in 1754.
The 1755 Lisbon earthquake caused significant damage. José António da Mata de Sousa Coutinho the 10th Correio-Mor oversaw further renovations. These continued between 1765 and 1766. The palace’s completion however took until 1790. The interior was finished then too.
Manuel José da Matta Sousa Coutinho the 11th and last High-Courier inherited the title. He rented the estate until 1812. After a self-imposed exile because of the Napoleonic wars he returned. He sheltered wounded soldiers from the Liberal Wars. He also undertook renovations. These included painting the ceiling in the Sala do Brasão and adding framed paintings. He also restored many azulejos.
In 1859 his daughter married a Brazilian diplomat. The ownership transferred to them. They completed improvements to the Sala Central and Sala de Música around 1871. These included adding stucco decorations.
Descendants of the last High-Courier allowed the palace to fall into ruin. Financial difficulties forced a sale in 1875. Wealthy gentleman Quirino Luís António Louza purchased it. His daughter and her husband undertook some restorations. The palace changed hands again in 1961. After that it was sold to the Quina family.
Miguel Quina initiated a full restoration in 1966. The Portuguese Carnation Revolution and a subsequent counter-coup halted the project in 1975. The state expropriated the Palácio do Contador-Mor. It became a warehouse leading to further damage. This impressive building stands as a testament to Portugal’s rich history. A history of wealth power and resilience. It waits for its next chapter.