What if I told you that Once in Buenos Aires was once the beating heart of Jewish life in Argentina? Picture this vibrant neighborhood in the early 1900s. Russian Jews escaping pogroms mingled with those from Morocco and Syria all seeking refuge. They found it here in Once officially called Balvanera. This area thrived with Yiddish newspapers delicatessens and lively political debates in bustling coffee houses. The name Once or eleven comes from a nearby train station formerly called 11 de Septiembre today Sarmiento. It commemorates a historical political uprising.
Today Once is a far cry from its Jewish past. Korean and Catholic Argentines have since joined the neighborhood’s diverse mix. The once-thriving Jewish community has largely moved to more affluent areas. But Once still pulsates with a unique energy. It’s now celebrated as the city’s garment district. Fabric of every color and kind fills shop after shop. Button stores clothing wholesalers and five and dime stores line the streets.
A unique feature of this bustling market is the presence of mezuzahs on some of the shop doorways. A quiet reminder of its rich Jewish heritage. Many stores have attractive displays others spill onto the streets in a vibrant display of textiles. The IFT Theatre formerly a Yiddish theatre still stands. Founded in 1932 it adapted by offering performances in Spanish. While it no longer focuses on Jewish content its existence is a link to Once’s past. Security measures remain due to the tragic 1994 AMIA bombing a horrific event that still impacts the community today.
The Gran Templo de Paso stands proudly as a testament to the enduring Jewish presence. Erected in 1927 its ceremony was attended by President Marcelo T Alvear. Its beautiful white architecture is striking. Yet its imposing wrought-iron gates and security guards are a stark reminder of the measures taken to protect its congregants. Accessing some of the synagogues and Jewish institutions requires being part of the community. Strict security protocols are in place. This highlights the ongoing challenges faced by the community.
While the neighborhood’s character has changed its pulse remains undeniable. The mix of cultures and the ever-present reminder of Once’s Jewish heritage create a unique atmosphere. It’s a neighborhood that has woven together its past and present into a vibrant and sometimes chaotic tapestry. It’s a place where you can find bargains in the fabric district. You can explore the echoes of a rich history. You can experience the energy of modern Buenos Aires. Explore Once with an open mind. Let yourself be surprised by the unexpected gems it has to offer. This is Once a place where history and the present coexist in a surprisingly captivating way.