Ōhinerau

From the heart of Remuera rises Ōhinerau, a place whispered to be the dwelling of Hinerau, the goddess of whirlwinds. Ōhinerau, also known as Mount Hobson, stands as a silent witness to centuries of change, a volcanic cone reaching 143 meters into the Auckland sky. The mountain’s dual names reflect its rich, interwoven history, blending Māori heritage with colonial influence. Ōhinerau, the original name, connects us to Hinerau and the powerful forces of nature revered by Māori. Mount Hobson, on the other hand, acknowledges Captain William Hobson, New Zealand’s first Governor-General. Long before European arrival, Ōhinerau thrived as a significant Māori pā, a fortified village bustling with life. Imagine the slopes teeming with activity, as families cultivated kūmara gardens and built their homes on terraces carved into the volcanic rock. At its peak, the pā housed an estimated 1,000 people, their lives intricately woven into the fabric of this land. The summit, or tihi, served as a strategic stronghold, defended by imposing terraces. This is where the chief resided, overseeing the daily life of the community. Even today, as you walk the paths of Ōhinerau, you can still trace the remnants of these ancient terraces and storage pits. Look closely at the dirt banks along the track. You might spot historic midden deposits – shells of cockles, pipi, and scallops, discarded fragments of obsidian tools, and even bone remnants, whispering tales of feasts and daily life. These middens offer a glimpse into the past, connecting us to the people who called Ōhinerau home. The mountain has also borne witness to change and disruption. Quarrying and the construction of water reservoirs, one in 1935 and another partially buried one in 1955, have altered the landscape, leaving their mark on the ancient terraces. Despite these changes, the spirit of Ōhinerau remains. As you stand here, taking in the panoramic views of Auckland, remember the stories held within this ancient volcano. The whispers of Hinerau, the bustling life of the pā, and the layers of history etched into the very earth beneath your feet. Ōhinerau stands as a powerful reminder of the enduring connection between people and place.