Morro do Vintém

“Twenty hills. That’s what they say Rio has,” a voice cuts through the air, “but who’s counting when you’re facing Morro do Vintém?” This peak, Morro do Vintém, isn’t just another bump on Rio’s landscape. It holds a story, woven into the fabric of the city itself. Originally, the land belonged to the Brazilian Army. Early settlers, seeking a place to call home, had to request permission from military police to build their humble dwellings. These were simple structures, often made of stucco and sapê, a type of thatch. Life was basic. There was no sewage system, relying instead on rudimentary sumps. Light came from candles and oil lamps, not electricity. Cooking was done on wood-burning stoves. Water was collected in tins from communal pipes. The name “Vintém,” an old Brazilian coin of little value, reflects the perceived worthlessness of this swampy, undesirable land. But the arrival of the Moça Bonita railway station in 1939 changed everything. Railway workers, needing housing, began to settle in Vila Vintém, the community clinging to the slopes of Morro do Vintém. The community grew further with the influx of workers constructing apartments on Marechal Falcão da Frota Street. A small commercial hub emerged, with a few grocery stores and a coal yard. Electricity eventually arrived, distributed from the residents’ association. Basic sanitation, piped water, and a sewage system, were implemented during Carlos Lacerda’s time as governor. In the 1950s, the Moça Bonita station was renamed “Padre Miguel,” honoring the priest Miguel de Santa Maria Mochon who dedicated his life to the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição de Realengo. This name also became the name of the surrounding neighborhood. Unfortunately, over time, social problems increased. A lack of government presence and resources in areas further from the city center led to neglect and a shortage of public services like education, healthcare, and recreational facilities in Vila Vintém. This void facilitated the rise of drug trafficking, starting small but eventually escalating with the emergence of the Falange Vermelha, later known as Comando Vermelho, which dominated drug activity in the community for years. The story of Morro do Vintém, therefore, is a story of contrasts. It’s a story of humble beginnings, growth spurred by infrastructure development, and the enduring challenges faced by communities on the margins.