Montmorency

Gazing upon Montmorency, can you sense the echoes of powerful barons? This hilltop town, just north of Paris, cradles a history as dramatic as the valley it overlooks. Montmorency, named after the illustrious family who shaped its destiny, stands as a testament to their enduring legacy. Montmorency wasn’t always the tranquil suburb we see today. In the 10th century, Bouchard the Bearded, a minor baron controlling river tolls on the Seine, was granted this strategic promontory. His descendants adopted the name Montmorency, becoming France’s “First Christian Barons”. This marked the rise of a lineage that would produce six constables, twelve marshals, and four admirals for France. Montmorency became a vital defensive position, overlooking both the valley and the Plaine de France. Imagine Mathieu II de Montmorency, a key figure in the victory at the Battle of Bouvines in 1214. His valor earned him the right to add twelve eagles to his coat of arms, symbolizing twelve captured enemy banners. The family’s motto, “God help the first Christian baron,” resonated with their power and influence. The town of Montmorency also witnessed periods of strife. During the Hundred Years’ War, the original castle was destroyed by the English and never rebuilt. The family later sought grander residences, leaving Montmorency for the luxurious chateaux of Chantilly and Écouen. Yet, their mark remained. The Collegiate Church of Saint-Martin, a stunning example of Flamboyant Gothic architecture, was built here between 1515 and 1563. It served as the necropolis for the Montmorency family and even some Bourbon-Condé princes. Even after the last Montmorency duke was executed in 1632, the town continued to evolve. From the 17th century onward, Montmorency attracted notable figures, including Charles Le Brun, the first painter to King Louis XIV. His “Petit Château” graced the area near the present-day Rue du Lac. Sadly, it vanished in the 18th century, along with its magnificent gardens and water features. Montmorency’s story even includes a quirky railway line nicknamed “Le Refoulons” (The Pushers). Operating from 1866 to 1954, the train required the locomotive to be placed at the rear to push the carriages up the steep incline to Montmorency. Montmorency, once a strategic stronghold, has transformed into a charming suburb. Yet, its streets still whisper tales of barons, battles, and a family legacy etched into French history.