Montée Hoche

“Is that Napoleon…on horseback?” a young boy whispered, tugging at his mother’s skirt as they ascended the Montée Hoche. This steep stairway in Lyon, a path etched into the hillside, has borne witness to centuries of history. Montée Hoche connects the bustling quays of the Saône to the heights of the Croix-Rousse. Originally, it bore the name of another prominent figure: Bonaparte. The current name, honoring General Lazare Hoche, a hero of the French Revolution, was bestowed in 1878. This change reflects the tumultuous shifts in power that shaped Lyon and France. The steps themselves wind alongside the old fortifications of Lyon, a silent reminder of the city’s defensive past. As you climb, you can glimpse remnants of Fort Saint Jean, nestled behind the walls. It’s a strenuous climb, the stone steps worn smooth by countless footsteps. The lower section of the Montée Hoche squeezes between a modern high-rise and an older, renovated house. Further up, the path widens, offering a brief respite beneath the shade of trees, before continuing its steep ascent. And yes, that young boy’s whisper held a kernel of truth. Napoleon Bonaparte, then First Consul, did indeed ascend this very path on horseback in 1805. He was on his way to review the guard at Fort Saint Jean. Imagine the clatter of hooves on stone, the entourage of officials struggling to keep pace with their leader. Today, a plaque commemorates this event, a small tribute to the larger-than-life figure who once graced the Montée Hoche. From the summit, the view stretches across the city to the district of Vaise and even to the modern housing complexes of Duchère. It’s a breathtaking panorama that rewards the effort of the climb. The Montée Hoche isn’t just a stairway; it’s a living testament to Lyon’s rich and complex history, a place where whispers of the past still echo among the rustling leaves.