The steep incline of Montée du Chemin-Neuf challenges even the most seasoned walker. But its steepness hides a rich history.
This isn’t just any street in Vieux Lyon. Montée du Chemin-Neuf is a vital artery connecting the Saint-Jean and Saint-Just districts. Its name translates to “New Road” a testament to its creation in 1562. An ordinance from the city council ordered its construction.
The Baron des Adrets a Protestant commander played a crucial role. He planned the route to link the upper and lower parts of Lyon. The Protestant rulers feared a Catholic attack from Saint-Just. This new road provided a quick escape route.
Montée du Chemin-Neuf is more than just a path. In the 18th century it housed Masonic lodges. Number 33 housed the Egyptian Lodge and later the Triumphant Wisdom Lodge. Famous figures like Joseph Balsamo Giacomo Casanova and Martines de Pasqually were initiated here. Jean-Baptiste Willermoz was the venerable master of the lodge of Benevolence. These lodges engaged in mystical practices including mesmerism healing and various demonstrations. Louis-Claude de Saint-Martin a disciple of Martines de Pasqually and Willermoz lived at number 53 in 1775 and 1776.
The French Revolution left its mark. During the Siege of Lyon revolutionary troops bombarded the city. They used red-hot cannonballs to start fires. To combat these fires the city lit up the first floors of each street. But Montée du Chemin-Neuf’s visibility to the enemy made lighting it too risky. A curfew was enforced. From late September it became a key access route for national troops to the insurgent bastion of Vieux Lyon.
The 19th century saw the street become a hub for artisans. Alexis Brun Bastenaire established a stained-glass workshop at number 4. His work included windows for the Saint-Louis church in La Guillotière and Notre-Dame-Saint-Vincent. Lucien Bègule a young glassmaker experimented there before creating his own workshop. At number 35 Jean Louis Auguste Dousselin set up a candle and wax mold workshop. The business dating back to 1792 later moved to larger premises.
Tragedy struck in 1930. The Fourvière catastrophe involved landslides. Several buildings collapsed on Montée du Chemin-Neuf and Rue Tramassac. Power was cut. A second larger landslide killed nineteen firefighters and four police officers. The area was never rebuilt now vegetated with a fountain marking the tragedy.
During World War II number 51 a bar called L’Alcazar became a meeting place for militiamen and the Gestapo. A plaque remembers Guy Bernard killed by the militia while trying to escape.
In 1971 a prayer group formed at number 49. This eventually evolved into the Chemin Neuf community. The community remains in its original house. They also manage the Marie-Thérèse student residence at number 59.
Montée du Chemin-Neuf. A steep climb with a rich history. Its story continues to unfold.