Did you know that Montée des Esses in Lyon was once a quarry? That’s right. Before this winding road existed the hill was mined for stone. We stand today on the Montée des Esses a street with a fascinating history. It was originally known as Chemin de Serin. Its name reflects the destination from the Croix-Rousse boulevard. However the current name Montée des Esses better describes the road’s shape its many winding turns. The Lyon municipal council officially changed the name in 2015.
The Montée des Esses is more than just a picturesque street. It’s a testament to Lyon’s evolution. In 1788 a special tax was levied. This was to make the climb to Croix-Rousse easier. It wasn’t until 1840 that the work was completed creating the road we see today. The Montée des Esses wasn’t always as wide as it is now. It was widened in the latter half of the 20th century.
Imagine the cyclists of the Dauphiné Libéré around the year 2000. They conquered this very climb before sprinting onto the boulevard. Today the Montée des Esses hosts a unique urban cycling race. It’s a short but challenging uphill race. Cyclists from the region compete. They strive to qualify for the ultimate climb. It’s a spectacular pursuit of effort and strategy. The race requires participants to be over 18. They need a medical certificate. A current FFC license works too. Electrically assisted bikes are not allowed. Registration fees must be paid online.
Look around you. Notice the mix of old and new. There are older individual houses and a disused workshop. The road winds between large retaining walls. These walls are built of stone lower down changing to concrete higher up. Vegetation fills the inside of each bend. Little paths and stairs weave through it. It’s a pleasant walk despite the litter and motor noise. At the second bend a large white house is visible. You can also see Vaise the western part of Lyon and the mountains.
The last bend is unique. It’s dominated by a huge twelve-story building. This building has blue balconies and awnings. It’s partially on concrete stilts and is decorated with tiles. The climb ends under the retaining wall of Rue Bleton. Garages and the back of a large residence line the end of the street. The Montée des Esses is a place where history architecture and modern life blend seamlessly. A place where a short steep climb tells a story of time and change. It offers a fascinating glimpse into Lyon’s past present and future.