High above the city’s bustle stands the Montée de la Grande Côte. Its steep incline whispers tales of centuries past. This isn’t just any street. This is a living testament to Lyon’s rich history.
The Montée de la Grande Côte began its life as a humble country path. Farmers and vine growers trod its dusty track in the Middle Ages. Imagine their lives. Then in 1296 the nuns of the desert bought the western side. They transformed this pathway centuries later.
By the 16th century urbanization changed everything. The Montée de la Grande Côte became a vital artery. People flowed up and down it. It was a major route connecting the Terreaux quarter to the Croix-Rousse plateau. This was the north gate to the Presqu’île. The street’s name Grand’Côte Saint-Sébastien and Grand’Côte de La Croix-Rousse reflects this importance.
The upper part earned the name Pierres-Plantées. Stones were carefully placed to make the treacherous climb safer. A Saint-Roch statue once stood here. It marked the end of a devastating plague epidemic. This small statue and its Latin inscription disappeared after the French Revolution.
The Montée de la Grande Côte wasn’t just a thoroughfare. It was home to many canuts. These skilled silk workers lived and worked along its length. By 1788 over 705 looms buzzed. The street became a hub. Canuts made their way down to Lyon’s markets. They traveled to the Capuchins district or the Condition des soies. This very street echoed with their protests during the Canut revolts of 1831 and 1834.
In 1835 a milestone occurred. France’s first consumer cooperative opened right here. Michel Derrion and Joseph Reynier established this pioneering venture. Long before England’s Rochdale movement it championed social enterprise. A plaque proudly declares this achievement.
1855 brought modernization. The road surface was improved. Sanitary sewers were installed. The Rue des Pierres Plantées was incorporated into the Montée de la Grande Côte between 1854 and 1930. In 1895 young Marius Berliet tested his first car here. It was named the Pantoufle. The test drive ended rather abruptly in a butcher’s shop window.
Urban renewal in the late 20th century dramatically altered the Montée. The top section was rebuilt. Houses were demolished creating a visible gap. Today however staircases gardens and an esplanade grace this upper section. They provide stunning panoramic views over Lyon. Only the stretch between Rue des Tables Claudiennes and Rue Burdeau retains its original width.
The Montée de la Grande Côte is more than just a street. It’s a living timeline. It demonstrates Lyon’s past and present. As we walk its path we walk through history. From ancient pathways to modern innovation it holds captivating secrets. The Montée de la Grande Côte. A Lyon landmark.