Crumbling stones whisper tales of a bygone era. This is the Molino de Santo Domingo a testament to Mexico City’s rich history. Right before you stands a remarkable structure. It’s a 16th-century mill one of many Hernan Cortes ordered built. These mills harnessed the water flowing from the Sierra de los Leones. The water flowed through the region known as the Desierto de los Leones. It also came from the abundant springs of Chapultepec. This network provided fresh water to the city via an aqueduct.
Initially simple the Molino de Santo Domingo was a primitive wheat mill. Its wooden paddle wheels were placed directly in the water current. Later more sophisticated aqueducts improved its efficiency. The mill’s early history is intertwined with intrigue. It was initially seized by Beltran Nunno de Guzman an Oidor of the first audiencia. He’d taken advantage of Cortes’ absence to claim his possessions. Nuño de Guzman’s reputation was far from stellar. People called him a scoundrel and a ruffian.
To settle Guzman’s debts the mill was given to Cortes’ wife’s brother. Legend claims Cortes’ wife La Marcaida met a tragic end. She was found dead in her home. The rumor is that Cortes himself strangled her. In 1576 the Dominican order purchased the Molino de Santo Domingo. They operated it for two centuries.
Over the following centuries the mill changed hands many times. It underwent many modifications. In the 20th century parts were destroyed to build housing developments. Fortunately some key structures survived. They were saved by people who cherished their history and restored them. Adolfo Desentis the Count of Guadalupe del Peñasco is a prime example. He adapted parts of the mill for his residence. He carefully preserved old industrial equipment. This included millstones and gear trains. He also maintains the old garden and a chapel with a beautiful neoclassical altar. The altar dates from the late 18th century. The Count wrote a book detailing the mill’s history from the 16th century. The book is richly illustrated. It reveals details of the mill’s evolution and its various owners.
The Molino de Santo Domingo stands as a powerful symbol. It represents the enduring spirit of Mexico City. It connects us to the city’s pre-Hispanic roots. Its location in the Tacubaya area was strategic. It was close to the lakes yet high enough to avoid flooding. The area was settled by Chichimeca tribes long before the Aztecs. They paid tribute to the Aztecs and participated in their wars. When the Spanish arrived Cortes claimed the land. He allowed religious orders to establish themselves there. They built churches on indigenous teocallis. Vast convents followed. The land was used for farming and livestock. Its location made it a crucial trading route from the south. The Belen gate a main access point to the city was nearby.
Tacubaya underwent significant transformations. Its urbanization began in the late 18th century. Large country houses were built. Since the 16th century large haciendas were established particularly around the mills. The arrival of the railway in the 19th century changed things significantly. Steam-powered then electric trains replaced the mule-drawn carts. Families moved to Tacubaya making it a permanent residence. This changed the idea of visiting for summer vacations. The Molino de Santo Domingo reminds us of a rich past. It’s a place where history architecture and human stories intertwine. This makes it a treasured jewel of Mexico City.