Hidden amidst the grand forests west of Versailles lies Marly-le-Roi. It was once a quiet village. Then it became a royal escape for Louis XIV. He yearned for respite from the rigid formality of Versailles. He commissioned Jules Hardouin-Mansart to create a more intimate retreat. This became the Château de Marly.
The Château de Marly was no ordinary palace. It was a “château jardin,” a harmonious blend of architecture and nature. Twelve pavilions, arranged in pairs, flanked the central water features. Formalized cascades fed the waters, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. The pavilions’ exteriors were adorned with frescoes. These depicted sculptures, draperies, and Olympian symbols. This was a collaborative effort between Mansart and Charles Le Brun. They also worked together on the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. The pavillon du Roi, Louis XIV’s personal pavilion, showcased Apollo and Thetis. Other pavilions honored various Olympians, Hercules, Victory, Fame, and Abundance.
Construction concluded in 1684. The Sun King inaugurated the hydraulic works that same year. By 1686, the château was ready for the king’s first stay. Marly-le-Roi was presented as a simple hunting lodge. Yet, it was far more extravagant. In 1688, the Grand Abreuvoir à chevaux, a magnificent horse trough, was installed. Louis XIV continuously embellished the park. He created wide paths for carriages to follow the hunt. He implemented more elaborate waterworks than at Versailles. Ironically, the water for these features came from the Marly machine.
The Duc de Saint-Simon described Marly’s beginnings in his memoirs. He noted the valley’s marshy and enclosed nature. He commented on the continuous expansion of the “hermitage” with buildings, gardens, and waterworks. He claimed that Marly’s cost exceeded that of Versailles. Saint-Simon also recounted the informal atmosphere at Marly-le-Roi. This contrasted sharply with the strict etiquette of Versailles.
Louis XIV’s successors found Marly damp and dreary. They seldom visited. The “river” was filled and grassed over in 1728. During the Revolution, Coustou’s Chevaux de Marly were moved to Paris. They now stand in the Place de la Concorde. The château itself met a tragic end. It was sold to an industrialist, converted into a factory, and ultimately demolished in 1806. Napoleon repurchased the estate in 1807. Today, the park remains state property. The Cour Marly at the Louvre Museum houses many of the Marly sculptures. Only the foundation of the pavillon du Roi and the memories of a royal retreat remain at Marly-le-Roi.