A crumbling cement block. That’s what remains of the original crosspiece. Welcome to Magdalena de las Salinas. This modest church stands at the heart of a neighborhood. It’s a place steeped in history. A history stretching back centuries. Magdalena de las Salinas wasn’t always a small church. It began as a Franciscan chapel in the 16th century. This humble chapel held outdoor masses. It served as a center for evangelization. This area was once a thriving town. The original town of Coatlayauhcan meaning “place of the snake of fog” flourished. It boasted fourteen neighborhoods. These neighborhoods laid the foundation for the modern colonias we know today.
Magdalena de las Salinas’s past is entwined with Tlatelolco. This ancient settlement was its dependant. During the colonial era it became a town subject to the Villa de Guadalupe. The church we see today. It’s a testament to time. It still retains its original main altarpiece. This altarpiece showcases Solomonic-style columns. Oil paintings and sculptures depict the Passion of Christ. Much of the church’s original structure didn’t survive. Rome’s secularization of church properties in the 18th century changed things. Parts of its archives were moved to the Parish of Santa Ana.
Look closely at that unique atrium cross. It’s an intriguing oddity opposite the church entrance. It incorporates Aztec relics. The cross itself is weathered. Its original features are largely gone. Yet. The black basalt shaft remains. You can make out carved Instruments of the Passion. A rooster a ladder a corn stalk. Even what may be a wound. The most captivating detail? It sits atop a pyramidal base. An Aztec ring stone is embedded. This likely ballcourt marker continues to be used for offerings. Candles and flowers adorn its recessed center. Magdalena de las Salinas. More than just a church. It’s a living history book. Each stone each detail whispers stories of a vibrant past. Stories of faith and community. Stories of resilience and adaptation. A story that continues to unfold in the heart of Mexico City.