Lake Pupuke

Tucked between Takapuna and Milford, Lake Pupuke whispers a tale of fiery origins. Lake Pupuke isn’t just any lake. It fills the heart-shaped void of a double volcanic crater, a reminder of Auckland’s explosive past. This unique shape comes from two craters merging – a larger one forming the main body, and a smaller one creating the northeastern arm. Lake Pupuke’s story stretches back approximately 193,200 years, making it one of the oldest features of the Auckland volcanic field. While other similar craters have been swallowed by later eruptions or eroded by time, Lake Pupuke endures. This is because its eruptions produced significant lava flows, which allow water to escape through cracks and form freshwater springs along the beaches between Takapuna and Milford. This constant flow prevents the lake from overflowing and breaching its crater walls. One of those lava flows, at the end of Takapuna Beach, engulfed a kauri forest, creating an internationally recognized collection of tree molds. This “fossil forest” is considered New Zealand’s only example of its kind, preserved in lava. Some of these molds are visible at low tide near the boat ramp and car park. Maori legend adds another layer to Lake Pupuke’s story. It tells of a tupua (supernatural being) couple, children of the fire gods, who angered the fire-goddess Mahuika. Their mainland home was destroyed by Matahoe, god of earthquakes, and Lake Pupuke was born from the devastation. Rangitoto Island, according to the legend, rose from the sea as the couple’s place of exile. The mists often seen around Rangitoto are said to be the couple’s tears, mourning the loss of their home. Today, Lake Pupuke is a hub of activity. People come to picnic, paddle, kayak, sail, dive, and windsurf. Rowing crews practice on its waters. The Auckland Dragon Boat Association even holds annual races here. And in 2007, rainbow trout were introduced, boosting recreational fishing. Interestingly, because Lake Pupuke has no natural streams flowing in or out, these trout cannot reproduce naturally. New trout need to be periodically released to maintain the population. Lake Pupuke also has a hidden gem – the PumpHouse Theatre. Originally a pump house built in 1894 to supply fresh water to the area, it was replaced in 1906 by a larger structure. Due to rising demand, the lake’s water level dropped, affecting its quality. By 1944, the lake was no longer a water source, with supplies coming from the Waitākere Ranges instead. The 1906 pump house is now a protected historic building and home to a thriving theatre.