La Choza

Clutching a worn copy of El Gráfico magazine, I find myself drawn to the tranquility of La Choza. This tiny hamlet, nestled in the heart of Argentina’s Buenos Aires province, seems an unlikely haven for football fanatics. La Choza, once known simply as “Desvío km 77,” owes its existence to the railway. The Buenos Aires – Rosario line once bustled through here, bringing life and commerce. A station was built in 1908 by the Compañía General de Ferrocarriles. Around it, a small community sprouted, eventually taking its name from a local agricultural establishment. The railway ceased operations in 1981, leaving behind only tracks and faded signs as remnants of its vibrant past. Even the station itself was demolished during the military dictatorship. Today, a plaza stands on its former site, a quiet memorial to a bygone era. La Choza, with its mere 40 inhabitants, exudes a unique charm. Three blocks long, it boasts a single shop, a primary school (Escuela Número 9), and an air of undisturbed peace. Insecurity is a foreign concept here. The village comes alive primarily on weekends. Locals from surrounding areas gather at pop-up restaurants, eager to savor home-cooked meals featuring locally raised beef. These culinary gatherings also welcome tourists seeking a peaceful afternoon in the countryside. But La Choza holds a secret, a treasure trove of Argentine football history. “Rubito,” the village’s longest-standing resident, owns “Resto Viejo Almacén,” a restaurant and museum rolled into one. His son now runs the establishment on weekends, preserving Rubito’s legacy. Inside, the walls are plastered with over 2,000 El Gráfico memorabilia – covers, clippings, posters, and photos of football clubs spanning 1945 to 1990. This collection, inherited from Rubito’s uncle, is a captivating journey through Argentine football’s golden age. Rubito, a passionate River Plate fan, delights in sharing stories and historical facts with visitors. He has received numerous offers for his collection but prefers to gift pieces to fellow enthusiasts. He recalls giving away a set of 1987 Rosario Central championship memorabilia to a father and son, cherishing the emotional value over monetary gain. La Choza, a seemingly insignificant dot on the map, offers a unique blend of tranquility and sporting passion. It is a testament to the enduring power of history and the simple joys of life.