Did the Romans play draughts in Inveresk? Let’s explore this charming village nestled near Edinburgh. Inveresk, meaning “mouth of the Esek” in Scottish Gaelic, boasts a history as rich as its picturesque landscapes. Inveresk sits at the mouth of the River Esk. It’s just a short hop from Edinburgh’s city center.
Inveresk’s story begins long ago. The Romans recognized its strategic importance. They built a fort here around AD 142. This fort, larger than typical Roman forts, housed around 500 cavalrymen. Evidence suggests a bustling civilian settlement grew alongside the fort, stretching towards Carberry and Monktonhall. Archaeologists have unearthed fascinating artifacts in Inveresk. These include tools, weapons, kitchen utensils, and even a gaming board similar to draughts. This hints at the leisure activities enjoyed by the Roman inhabitants. The Romans also left their mark on Inveresk’s architecture. Look closely at the walls of some buildings. You might spot Roman ‘breached’ stones, marked with diagonal lines.
Centuries later, Inveresk continued to play a role in Scotland’s history. The Battle of Pinkie Cleugh, one of the largest battles ever fought in Scotland, took place on the fields of Inveresk in 1547. Thousands perished in this bloody conflict between the Scots and English. The river Esk, it is said, ran red with blood. Even today, remnants of this battle are sometimes unearthed, including human bones, weapons, and other artifacts.
Inveresk House, the oldest house in the village, dates back to 1597. It has witnessed a parade of historical figures. Oliver Cromwell used it as his headquarters in 1650. Bonnie Prince Charlie may have visited before the Battle of Prestonpans. A chilling tale surrounds the house. A tunnel discovered in 1789 supposedly revealed the mummified remains of a Cavalier in full armor, next to a keg of gunpowder, perhaps a foiled plot against Cromwell.
Inveresk Lodge, dating back to 1683, has its own unique story. James Wedderburn, who made his fortune in Jamaica, owned the lodge. His son, Robert, born to a slave girl in Jamaica, traveled to Inveresk seeking his father. Sadly, James rejected his son, offering him only a small beer and a bent sixpence. Robert went on to become a prominent anti-slavery activist. The lodge and its beautiful gardens are now in the care of the National Trust for Scotland.
Inveresk is more than just historical battles and grand houses. It was once considered the “Montpellier of Scotland” for its healthy air and beautiful surroundings. The village’s unique character, with its blend of historical architecture and peaceful setting, has captivated visitors for centuries. It offers a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, while still being within easy reach of Edinburgh. As you stroll through the charming streets of Inveresk, imagine the lives lived here, the battles fought, and the stories whispered through the ages. This village, with its rich tapestry of history and natural beauty, offers a glimpse into Scotland’s captivating past.