Fifty-five thousand azulejos. Can you imagine that many tiles? That’s how many adorn the Igreja São Francisco de Cruarà in Salvador Bahia. Not Rio de Janeiro. This is a common mistake.
Igreja São Francisco de Cruarà is not in Rio. It’s a little further north in Salvador Bahia. This stunning church and convent are a masterpiece of Portuguese Baroque architecture. Its history stretches back centuries. It’s much more than just a pretty building.
The Franciscan order arrived in Salvador in 1587. They established a convent and church. Sadly this initial structure met a tragic end. The Dutch invasions of Bahia left it in ruins. But the Franciscans were persistent. They were not easily deterred.
Father Vicente das Chagas stepped in. He envisioned a magnificent new complex. His ambitious project began in 1686. It took decades to complete. The foundation stone for the current church was laid in 1708. The church itself wasn’t finished until 1723. The decoration took even longer. The entire complex including the convent was finally finished in 1782.
Imagine the dedication required. Generations of friars toiled to create this breathtaking masterpiece. The three-naved floor plan is unique among Franciscan churches in northeast Brazil. Most had just one nave. The facade is a blend of Mannerist and Baroque. It’s quite impressive.
Step inside. You’ll be enveloped in a world of gold. Every surface is covered in intricate carvings and gilding. Look up. The ceiling is a canvas of paintings. They depict passages from the lives of Christ and Mary. There are also Old Testament scenes. These were painted by Frei Jerônimo da Graça between 1733 and 1737.
The walls are adorned with panels of Portuguese tiles. They tell moralistic stories. These tiles are truly exquisite. They were imported all the way from Lisbon. The side gate leading to the convent boasts an illusionistic ceiling painting. It’s attributed to José Joaquim da Rocha. He created it in the latter half of the 18th century.
The convent itself is equally impressive. It’s built around a square cloister. It contains a sub-floor and two floors above street level. Its tile panels from the first half of the 18th century are astonishing. Some were created by the renowned Bartolomeu Antunes de Jesus in 1737. He worked in Lisbon. The cloister contains the largest collection of Portuguese tiles in all of Brazil. They depict scenes from a Spanish moral play inspired by Horace. They teach lessons about life death and virtue.
The Igreja São Francisco de Cruarà in Salvador is not just a place of worship. It’s a testament to faith perseverance and artistic skill. It’s a journey through time. It’s a captivating story etched in stone tile and gold. It’s a must-see.