Is there none other but a house of God, and this a gate of the heavens? This is the inscription in Latin above the door of Iglesia de San Juan Bautista. Welcome to one of the oldest surviving houses of worship in Mexico City.
Known locally as la Iglesia de Coyoacán, Iglesia de San Juan Bautista is a Catholic church. It is a former mission dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. The Spanish introduced Christianity to the indigenous Nahuatl people in the early 16th century.
Iglesia de San Juan Bautista stands on the south side of Plaza Hidalgo. It is a striking example of Spanish colonial history. Construction happened in fits and starts between 1527 and 1552. The land was donated to conquistador Hernán Cortés. The native Ixtolinque chief, Juan de Guzmán, gave it to him.
Under the direction of the Dominican order, Iglesia de San Juan Bautista was built. It was built upon the site of a calmecac. This was a school for the sons of Aztec nobility. Ruins of the school still exist beneath the cloister. The original structure was designed as a basilica. It had a simple rectangular floor plan used in temple architecture.
In front of the church is a cobblestone square. It originally extended into what is now Plaza Centenario. During the colonial period, the square hosted religious one act dramatizations. These were known as autos sacramentales. Missionaries adopted a strategy to spread the new faith. They incorporated indigenous ritual practices. These had similarities to Christianity.
A four story bell tower stands to the west of the main church. It was added later in the 18th century. It was once topped by a dome, lantern and cross. Sadly, the dome collapsed during an earthquake in September 2017.
The facade is relatively plain. It is in the Herrerian style. This architectural style is characterized by clean geometric lines. It is almost entirely absent of ornamentation. There are grooved classical pilasters. Columns of the Ionic order are set into the face of the church. Above is the coat of arms of the Roman Catholic Order of Preachers. They are better known as the Dominicans. The petals of the fleur de lis cross symbolize the 12 apostles. Another carving depicts a monogram of the Virgin Mary. It is a crown with the intertwined letters A and M for Ave Maria.
Stepping inside Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, notice the exuberant interior. It was modified between 1926 and 1947. It reflects the prevailing Baroque style. It was reduced to a single nave. Seven small chapels flank either side. Among the most striking works are the illusion inducing ceiling frescoes. They depict scenes from the life of Christ. Catalan painter Juan de Fabregat painted them. Angels perch high above the column capitals lining the walls. They culminate in the magnificent Chapel of the Rosary. Its high altar is lavishly decorated. It is embellished with the glow of gold leaf.
Pause to admire the vitrine. It holds el Cristo de los Milagros. This is Christ of the Miracles. It has a mystical assemblage of gold and pewter milagros. These are healing charms. They are pinned to a sea of red ribbons. Milagros of a specific body part are used in prayer. People pray for improvement for some condition associated with that body part. Some of the milagros have photos of the person to be healed. Other works appeal to the emotions of the faithful. They feature biblical depictions of the lives of the saints of the Franciscan order. These include the Vision of Saint Teresa, the taking of the habit of Santa Clara, and the stigmatizations of San Francisco, Saint Domingo and San Juan.
Passing through a doorway leads to a small chapel. It leads out to an arched arcade of Tuscan columns. This is the cloister of the convent. Friar Juan de la Cruz may have founded it. He was an indigenous man who spoke Castilian Spanish. Within the convent’s walls, Nahuatl people were baptized. They were taught the tenets of the Christian faith.
In 1934, Iglesia de San Juan Bautista was declared a historic monument. In the 1980s, it was the site of an alleged Apparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Like the neighborhood itself, the church is full of rich culture. So explore Iglesia de San Juan Bautista and be glad that you did.