Remember the Aztec Emperor Moctezuma II. This area where the Iglesia de San Francisco now stands was once his zoo. Today, we stand before the Iglesia de San Francisco. It is a testament to faith and history. It is the last vestige of what was once Mexico City’s largest and most influential convent.
This church served as the headquarters for the first twelve Franciscan friars. They arrived in Mexico to spread Christianity in New Spain. The Pope himself authorized their mission. During its peak, the monastery was huge. It included chapels, a hospital, orchards and other buildings. It covered over 30000 square meters.
Interestingly, the Iglesia de San Francisco that we see today is the third one on this site. The first two churches sank into the soft ground. They had to be torn down. This current church was built between 1710 and 1716.
Did you notice how we walked downstairs to enter? The entire building is known as the Iglesia de San Francisco. However, the entrance on Madero Street is actually the Balvanera Chapel. The church has sunk significantly. The main facade is walled in. We enter through the side, via the Balvanera Chapel.
The Balvanera Chapel’s facade dates back to 1766. Many believe Lorenzo Rodríguez designed it. He is famous for his work on the Metropolitan Tabernacle. Inside, you will find an 18th-century altarpiece. It is dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. This chapel also leads to what was once the Chapel of the Second Station of the Stations of the Cross.
The Iglesia de San Francisco and its monastery witnessed many historical events. A funeral mass for Hernán Cortés was held here. People thought he had died in Central America.
Following the Reform War, the monastery was disbanded. The government seized most of its property. Much of the monastery was demolished to build new roads. Some parts survived. It was cheaper to leave them standing than to tear them down.
As you explore the Centro Histórico, remember the Iglesia de San Francisco. It is more than just a church. It is a landmark of Mexican faith and history. It is a reminder of the city’s layered past, from Aztec emperors to Franciscan friars.