Hôtel des Menus-Plaisirs

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Hidden within the bustling city of Versailles lies the Hôtel des Menus-Plaisirs, a place that has witnessed the unfolding of pivotal moments in French history. The Hôtel des Menus-Plaisirs wasn’t always a silent observer. It was the vibrant heart of royal entertainment, a stage where history’s drama played out. Originally built around 1745 by Louis XV, the Hôtel des Menus-Plaisirs served as a storehouse and workshop. It housed props, sets, and costumes for the elaborate performances and festivities of the royal court. Imagine vast rooms filled with the tools of amusement, from sporting equipment to musical instruments, theatrical backdrops to sculptures waiting for their moment in the spotlight. In 1759, the future Louis XVI received instruction in physics within these very walls, in a cabinet installed by Abbé Nollet. The Hôtel des Menus-Plaisirs is structured around two courtyards at different levels. The lower courtyard opens onto 22 Avenue de Paris. The upper courtyard is located at 19 Rue des États Généraux. This upper courtyard played a particularly important role in French history. In this very spot, a temporary hall hosted the Assembly of Notables in 1787 and again in late 1788. This hall would later be significantly expanded to accommodate the 1,200 deputies summoned for the Estates-General of 1789. Architect Pierre-Adrien Pâris oversaw the expansion, creating a luxurious and “dismountable” hall that filled the entire upper courtyard. Picture the scene: King Louis XVI, seated beneath a canopy in front of the covered staircase that still connects the two courtyards. The Three Estates assembled in separate seating areas arranged in a horseshoe shape. High tribunes provided space for the public to observe the proceedings. The Hôtel des Menus-Plaisirs is more than just bricks and mortar. It’s a testament to the power of place, a stage where history’s grand spectacle unfolded. The initial design of the hall proved to have poor acoustics. It underwent renovations within two months to improve the sound for speakers and facilitate debate. The current buildings housed offices and meeting rooms for the assembly’s work. On June 23, 1789, following the Tennis Court Oath, Louis XVI delivered a stern message to the Estates-General within this hall. In the same hall, just days later, the abolition of privileges was voted on. Then, on August 26, the Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen was proclaimed. These pivotal moments echoed through the halls of the Hôtel des Menus-Plaisirs, marking a turning point in French history. In the years that followed, the Hôtel des Menus-Plaisirs hosted electoral assemblies. Maximilien Robespierre was elected president of the district court here. Judges also occupied the space. The building later served as a supply depot for the army, and eventually, a cavalry barracks. After a long period of abandonment, the city of Versailles housed its technical services within the Hôtel in 1942. The French state then restored it for the bicentennial celebrations of the Revolution in 1989. Today, the Centre de musique baroque de Versailles occupies part of the Hôtel. But if you listen closely, perhaps in the upper courtyard where students practice, you might still hear the echoes of history whispering from the stones of the Hôtel des Menus-Plaisirs.

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