Did the champagne really flow in the bathtub? Here at the Hôtel de la Païva, whispers of extravagance and scandal still echo. This opulent mansion on the Champs-Élysées, built between 1856 and 1866, wasn’t just a home. It was a statement. A testament to the audacious life of Esther Lachmann, the woman the world knew as La Païva. The Hôtel de la Païva embodies her incredible journey from modest origins to becoming a prominent courtesan and later, a Marquise and Countess. It is a symbol of her ambition and her undeniable flair.
La Païva yearned for a home on the Champs-Élysées, believing it to be the world’s most beautiful avenue. Legend has it, a humiliating incident where she was ejected from a cab on this very street fueled her desire. She vowed then and there to one day own a piece of it. And own it, she did. Upon marrying the self-proclaimed Marquis de la Païva, she acquired the means to build her dream home. The Hôtel de la Païva, a masterpiece in the Italian Renaissance style, rose from the ground. It became a stage for lavish parties. The guest list glittered with the names of literary giants like the Goncourt brothers and Théophile Gautier, and influential figures like Léon Gambetta, Ernest Renan, and Hippolyte Taine.
The construction itself was a spectacle, costing a staggering ten million francs in gold, more than the Eiffel Tower. It took ten years to complete, captivating the Parisian public who watched in awe as the marble, mosaics, and painted ceilings took shape. The double courtyard entrance, designed for seamless arrival and departure of carriages, is a testament to La Païva’s attention to detail. While the courtyard itself has been replaced by commercial establishments, the echoes of horse-drawn carriages can almost be heard.
Inside, a breathtaking yellow onyx staircase winds its way through the mansion. Its grandeur sparked witty remarks, drawing comparisons between the levels of virtue and vice. La Païva’s love of luxury is evident throughout. The Moorish-style bathroom, rumored to have housed a silver bathtub with taps for milk and champagne, has become legendary. Her bedroom, now the club’s restaurant, still retains its ornate ceiling. The grand salon, overlooking the Champs-Élysées, hosted countless gatherings. Its magnificent consoles with bronze atlantes, now residing in the Musée d’Orsay and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, hint at the opulence that once filled this space. The Hôtel de la Païva remains a captivating blend of history, scandal, and architectural brilliance. It invites us to glimpse the life of a woman who dared to defy convention and build her own empire of beauty.