“The Reflecting Waters” a Maori name whispers of Freemans Bay’s past. This inner-city Auckland suburb wasn’t always fashionable. Once a bustling bay it’s now filled land. Reclamation began in 1873 concluding in 1901. Victoria Park now stands where the waters once reflected the sky.
Freemans Bay’s history is a blend of Maori and European stories. Before European settlement Maori called the area Waiatarau or Reflecting Waters. They also harvested cockles here. Fishing was a significant activity. The headland was a seasonal fishing place for Tamaki Maori. The area held importance for the Waiohua tribe. Kiwi Tamaki a paramount chief occupied Te Toduring shark hunting seasons.
European settlement arrived in the 1840s. Colonial Surveyor Felton Matthew planned the streets. The bay was initially known as Waipiro Bay for its heavy rum consumption. Its present name likely comes from James Stuart Freeman Captain William Hobson’s secretary.
Freemans Bay wasn’t always desirable. It was the wrong side of Queen Street. Smelly noisy industries dominated. Shipyards sawmills a foundry and more thrived here. The city morgue a night soil dump and a rubbish incinerator were also here. This last facility was known as the Destructor and later became Victoria Park Market. It was rebranded Victoria Park Village in 2017.
Modest housing surrounded these industries. Workers’ cottages were small and poorly built. Some were little more than hovels. Franklin Road offered larger homes often becoming boarding houses. The disparity in wealth is stark. In 1910 a house on Franklin Road cost £736 while one in Remuera cost £1279.
The Great Depression hit Freemans Bay hard. In 1930 39% of men were unskilled workers. Only 11% held white-collar jobs. This contrasts with Remuera where 86% were in white-collar roles. Freemans Bay was also a center for crime prostitution and union activity. It was seen as a source of infectious diseases. The Auckland City Council even had a Decadent Areas Committee to address the problems. In the 1930s and 40s many Maori and later Pacific Islanders came seeking work and affordable housing.
World War II brought change. Victoria Park became a military camp. Freemans Bay and St Marys Bay had many brothels. The areas reputation for illicit activities lingered after the war. In 1951 the council planned urban development. This would have destroyed many homes. This extensive plan didn’t fully happen. But many flats and townhouses appeared in the 1960s and 70s.
Gentrification began in the 1980s and 90s. Freemans Bay became one of Auckland’s most desirable areas. Today it’s a mix of heritage homes and newer dwellings. Two large parks offer green spaces. The area has undergone considerable transformation. Yet its unique history remains. From a disreputable past to a wealthy present Freemans Bay’s story reflects Auckland’s own evolution.