“Mushrooms sprouting in an alley?” I ask. It sounds like a fairy tale. Today, we uncover the secret of the Fontaine aux Champignons.
The Fontaine aux Champignons is not just a fountain. It is a testament to Paris’s rich history with mushrooms. Specifically, the “Champignon de Paris”. These are the common white button mushrooms.
The story of the Champignon de Paris begins long ago. Wild versions of these mushrooms were called “rosé des prés” due to their limestone hue. King Louis XIV loved them. His gardener cultivated them in the King’s garden.
The real story of the Champignon de Paris started around 1814. A Parisian farmer named Chambry made a discovery. He found white mushrooms growing in an old quarry. It was ten meters underground near his garden.
Chambry realized the underground conditions were perfect. He decided to cultivate the mushrooms there year-round. His success led other farmers to follow suit. They began growing mushrooms in the catacombs and quarries south of Paris.
By the 1880s, over 300 mushroom farmers worked in these underground quarries. They supplied Champignons de Paris throughout France. The mushrooms became a widely used ingredient in French cuisine.
However, the construction of the Paris Metro in the 20th century changed everything. The underground mushroom farms became obstacles. Mushroom cultivation moved to other regions. Anjou, in the town of Saumur became the new mushroom capital.
Today, France ranks lower in button mushroom production. Countries like the United States, China, and Holland produce more. Yet, even if grown in China, they are still called Champignon de Paris in France.
A few traditional mushroom farms still exist near Paris. They keep the tradition alive. These dedicated farmers grow mushrooms the old way. They use underground quarries.
The Fontaine aux Champignons reminds us of this history. It links us to the era when Paris was the mushroom capital. Next time you enjoy Champignons de Paris think of this story. Think of the underground quarries. Think of the farmer Chambry.
This humble fountain connects us to a hidden part of Parisian history. It is a history of innovation, adaptation, and culinary delight. A story of how a simple mushroom became a symbol of Paris. Now, let’s continue our tour.