Folie Desmares

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A dancer’s folly, a banker’s passion, an actress’s retreat. The Folie Desmares whispers tales of 18th-century romance and extravagance. Right before us stands this architectural gem, a testament to love, art, and scandal. The Folie Desmares began its life in 1705. It was designed by the royal architect Jean-Baptiste Alexandre Le Blond for Claude Ballon. Ballon was a dancer for Louis XIV and later became the dance master of Louis XV. The original structure embodies the elegant style of the era.

In 1708, the Folie Desmares took a dramatic turn. Antoine Hogguer, a wealthy Swiss banker, purchased the estate. He intended it as a gift for his mistress, the renowned actress Charlotte Desmares. Hogguer spared no expense, expanding the Folie Desmares and adorning it with lavish decorations. Charlotte’s presence graced every corner, her portrait replicated throughout the rooms. Hogguer commissioned the distinctive octagonal bedroom with its adjoining bathroom and hidden staircase.

He involved prominent artists of the time in transforming the property. Alexandre-François Desportes, famed for his hunting scenes, contributed large canvases. These canvases depicted a boar hunt and a stag hunt. The grand staircase, a marvel of design, likely owes its elegance to Le Blond. Even the celebrated painter Antoine Watteau left his mark. He captured Charlotte’s likeness in one of his works. This is believed to be his painting, “Embarkment for Cythera.” The Folie Desmares became a symbol of their passionate affair. It echoed with the laughter of gatherings. Voltaire himself was a guest at the Folie Desmares, hosted by Hogguer. Charlotte played Jocasta in Voltaire’s tragedy, “Oedipus,” likely within these very walls.

Today, the Folie Desmares stands as a reminder of a bygone era. The building retains its elegance despite the passage of time. The grand gallery’s oval medallions and empty panels hint at lost artworks. The gardens, once vibrant, still whisper secrets of romantic strolls. The Folie Desmares endured the tumultuous years of the French Revolution. It passed through various hands before finally being acquired by the city of Châtillon. The left wing of the Folie Desmares now houses the Maison du Patrimoine. This is a testament to the city’s commitment to preserving its cultural heritage. While the main building awaits much-needed renovations, the Folie Desmares continues to captivate. It invites us to imagine the lives and loves that unfolded within its walls.

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