Could a place called “Wolf Forest” have no wolves? Welcome to Farkas-erdő, a Budapest city park that plays with your expectations. Farkas-erdő, meaning “Wolf Forest,” is a bit of a trickster. It’s not a dense forest teeming with wolves. It’s a charming park nestled between the Újpest and Káposztásmegyer neighborhoods. The distant barking you might hear comes from the Rex Animal Shelter, ironically called Rex Animal Island, though it’s firmly on land. Our exploration of Farkas-erdő began with a mission to catalog Budapest’s green spaces. A half-hour tram ride from Lehel Square brought us to the whimsically named Bőröndös (Suitcase) Street, a gateway to this urban oasis.
Farkas-erdő today spans about 50 hectares. Its size has shrunk since 1981 due to surrounding housing developments. Despite its urban surroundings, Farkas-erdő teems with life. Birdwatchers flock here to spot black and green woodpeckers, nightingales, blackcaps, and fieldfares. Feeders and birdhouses attract not only birds but also the elusive hazel dormouse. Squirrels scamper through the trees, adding to the lively atmosphere. After a rain shower, mushroom hunters delight in the abundance of edible fungi. The trees of Farkas-erdő are easily identified. Spruces, maples, sycamores, and oaks provide a welcome canopy. A designated walking trail, ideally dotted with information boards (now mostly adorned with graffiti), winds through the park. Runners follow the “Crocodile Trail,” a curious name given the absence of actual crocodiles. An outdoor gym and a grilling area provide opportunities for recreation.
Farkas-erdő’s flora is as diverse as its fauna. The northern part features poplars and invasive species like the western hackberry. The larger southern section boasts a richer mix of trees. Near Megyeri út, you’ll find poplars and young black locust trees. The area bordering Farkas-erdő has a mix of poplars, invasive species, and spontaneously growing oak saplings, occasionally interspersed with Russian olive trees. The sandy soil supports the growth of sand-steppe plant communities. Rare and protected species like the sand baby’s-breath thrive here, alongside the sand parsley, a plant unique to Újpest within Budapest. Shadier areas harbor orchids like the sword-leaved helleborine and the broad-leaved helleborine. Between the poplars and black locust trees, a central longitudinal depression holds a valuable wetland habitat. Willows and extensive reed beds flourish here, a surprising burst of nature amidst the city. The great fen-sedge, a rare species in Budapest, has its largest population within this wetland.
Farkas-erdő faces challenges. Spontaneously created paths fragment the forest, threatening the tree population. Reducing these paths is crucial for the forest’s long-term health. Converting the black locust groves into native tree forests would further enhance the area’s ecological value. Illegal dumping, though lessened by recent cleanups, still poses a threat. Illegally dug drainage ditches threaten the unique wetland habitat, a problem that needs urgent attention. Farkas-erdő may not be the “wolf forest” its name suggests, but its blend of nature and urbanity creates a unique and captivating experience in the heart of Budapest.