“No mar estava escrito uma cidade”. These words inscribed on a plaque beside the Estátua de Carlos Drummond de Andrade offer a glimpse into the soul of this iconic monument. It stands here on Copacabana beach. But why is a statue of a poet so beloved here?
The Estátua de Carlos Drummond de Andrade isn’t just a statue. It is a tribute to one of Brazil’s greatest poets. Inaugurated on October 30 2002 it commemorated the centennial of Carlos Drummond de Andrade’s birth. The sculptor Leo Santana captured Drummond’s essence in cast iron.
Drummond was a people watcher. He loved spending his afternoons sitting on this very beach. He sat with his back to the sea. He watched the world go by. A photograph by Rogério Reis immortalized this image. It inspired Santana’s creation. The statue shows Drummond sitting casually on a bench. He is looking towards the sidewalk.
The monument quickly became a beloved landmark. Visitors often queue to take a photo with the statue. His grandson Pedro Drummond represented the family at the inauguration. The writer Ziraldo predicted that the monument would become a tourist attraction. He was right. Today the Estátua de Carlos Drummond de Andrade is one of Rio’s most famous statues. It is second only to Christ the Redeemer.
But there’s a curious detail that adds to the statue’s fame. It’s the frequent theft of his glasses. In 2012 the bronze glasses were replaced for the eighth time. Security cameras installed in 2009 haven’t deterred the vandals. They insist on taking home a souvenir.
These thefts are a nuisance. But they also speak to the statue’s popularity. People want to connect with Drummond. Even if it means swiping his spectacles.
Carlos Drummond de Andrade was a major figure in Brazilian literature. Born in Itabira on October 31 1902 he helped spread modernism in Brazil. His accessible writing made him popular. One of his most famous poems is “No Meio Do Caminho” from 1928. Drummond died in Rio de Janeiro on August 17 1987. This was twelve days after his daughter Maria Julieta passed away.
The Prefeitura do Rio revitalized the Estátua de Carlos Drummond de Andrade in Copacabana. This included replacing the glasses that were stolen at the end of October. The Gerência de Monumentos e Chafarizes also restored the bronze patina of the sculpture. They replaced plaques that had been damaged by the sea air and time.
The artist Mario Pitanguy was called in to make the new glasses. He has created other monuments in the city. These include the sculpture of the ballerina Mercedes Baptista.
So next time you’re on Copacabana beach take a moment to visit the Estátua de Carlos Drummond de Andrade. Sit beside him. Admire the view. Reflect on his words “No mar estava escrito uma cidade”. And maybe keep an eye on his glasses. You will be part of the ongoing story of this beloved monument.