Tired feet and pounding hearts. That’s what most people experience after climbing the Escalier de la Tête Noire. But there is much more than just effort going up and down the Escalier de la Tête Noire.
This monumental staircase is not just any ordinary stairway. The Escalier de la Tête Noire is a vital link connecting the city to the Saint-Charles train station. Think of it as a grand welcome mat to Marseille.
Let’s dive into the story of this impressive structure. The Saint-Charles train station was inaugurated in 1848. Initially, it lacked a direct route to Boulevard d’Athènes. Buildings blocked easy access. Imagine having to take a long detour just to reach the station.
It wasn’t until 1925 that the Escalier de la Tête Noire finally provided a solution. As early as 1859, people recognized the need for such a staircase. Adolphe Meyer envisioned a “gigantic staircase, punctuated by resting places, lined with beautiful architectural features.”
In 1911, the city launched a competition to design this grand staircase. The decorations were meant to create a monumental scene. Eugène Sénès and Léon Arnal won the competition. However, technical and financial issues delayed the project. World War I further stalled progress. Work resumed in 1919. The goal was to complete the staircase for the second colonial exhibition in 1922.
The Petit Séminaire buildings stood between the station and Boulevard d’Athènes. The state acquired these buildings in 1903. Demolition began on July 14, 1923. At the foot of the hill stood a monument to the Golden Virgin. It honored the Immaculate Conception. In late 1922, this monument was moved. It now stands at the intersection of Boulevard Voltaire, Rue Pierre-Semard, and Boulevard de la Liberté.
Siméon Flaissières, the mayor, laid the first stone on July 17, 1923. The Escalier de la Tête Noire opened to the public on December 22, 1925. However, the sculptures were not yet finished. A grand inauguration occurred on April 24, 1927. President Gaston Doumergue attended. Also present were Senator-Mayor Siméon Flaissières. The Minister of Public Works André Tardieu and Prefect Delfini also joined. During the same day, the Monument to the Dead of the Orient was also inaugurated.
In December 2022, the monumental staircase and its gardens were listed as historical monuments.
The Escalier de la Tête Noire rises 15.5 meters high. It features 104 steps. Seven landings break up the climb. As you descend from the station, you’ll notice several sculptures.
Ary Bitter created sculptures of children with lions. These are placed on either side of the staircase. They are titled “The Sun and the Sea” and “The World and Energy”.
After three small landings, you’ll reach a large intermediate landing. Auguste Carli sculpted the southern parts of the pillars. Each pillar features a female figure on a base. The bases depict the prow of a ship. Three oars emerge from each side. Two dolphins rise from the water. The female figure on the left represents the Gate of the Orient. She wears a long toga and holds a trident. The figure on the right symbolizes Marseille. She is seated on an antique chair. In her right hand, she holds a statue of the goddess Diana.
Henri Martin sculpted the coats of arms of various cities. On the left pillar are the arms of Nice, Marseille, and Aix-en-Provence. The right pillar displays Lyon, Marseille, and Paris. A lantern sits atop each pillar.
On the railings of the last three landings, you can find six small bronze groups by Henri Raybaud. These represent the products of Provence. On the left railing are “The Harvest”, “The Fruits”, and “The Fishing”. The right railing features “The Grapes”, “The Flowers”, and “The Hunt”. François Rudier cast these sculptures.
Near the final landing are two stone groups by Louis Botinelly. They face each other. One represents the Colonies of Africa. The other represents the Colonies of Asia. Each group features a woman reclining on a bench. Two children accompany each woman. The Asian figure resembles a Khmer princess. The African figure has braided hair.
The Escalier de la Tête Noire is more than just stairs. It is a journey through art and history. A climb up or down is a walk through Marseille’s story.