Glimmering under the Fuerteventura sun stands the Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña. It is more than just a building. It is a testament to faith and history.
The Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña, or Hermitage of the Virgin of the Rock, is an extraordinary Catholic monastery. It is carved into a massive rock formation. This makes it a captivating and enigmatic holy site.
This church is a building from the 18th century. Neighbors decided to erect a new temple. It was in honor of their patron saint. She is the Virgen de Nuestra Señora de la Peña.
Inside the Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña, the main altarpiece stands out. It is presided over by the image of the Virgen de la Peña. The alabaster sculpture came from workshops in Rimini. This is a city in Italy.
Legend says the image was brought from France. Juan de Béthencourt brought it. He was a conquistador. Initially, it was in Betancuria. The pirate attack by Xabán destroyed the town. The image disappeared. It was hidden in the crag. Saint Diego, Fray San Torcaz, and shepherds found it. This is where the Ermita del Malpaso now stands.
The Virgen de la Peña, patron saint of Fuerteventura, first had a hermitage in Malpaso. Tradition says the small Flemish Gothic alabaster image appeared there. This was a few years after the island’s conquest around 1430 to 1440. In the mid-16th century, the image moved to its current sanctuary. It is in Vega de Río Palmas.
The Berber invasion of the Xaban arráez happened in 1593. The image was hidden in Malpaso. This was to avoid desecration. Later, it was rediscovered.
The hermitage was rebuilt in 1748. It was a little away from the original cave. Today, it remains there. The construction is traditional. It used stone and lime. The roof is mud.
Every September, the Majoreros think of two events. These are going back to school and the Peña festivities. The pilgrimage of La Peña is a popular event. It is one of the most important recreational religious festivities on the island.
The Virgen de la Peña is a small alabaster carving. It is 21 centimeters high. It dates from the first decades of the 15th century. It is one of the oldest sculptures in the Canary Islands.
The image is within the French Gothic style. It possibly came from the workshops of the Master of Rimini. It shows a seated Virgin with a child.
This type of carving was widely distributed in Europe. It was for long trips and war campaigns. Devotion to Fuerteventura’s patron saint is not about the image itself. It is about her miraculous apparition.
The legend of the apparition involves two Franciscan friars. They are Fray Juan de Santorcaz and San Diego de Alcalá. They lived in the San Buenaventura Convent in Betancuria. One spring night, Juan de Santorcaz looked for herbs. San Diego went to find him. Shepherds saw strange lights in the Barranco de Malpaso.
San Diego and the shepherds found Father Santorcaz’s hat in a pool. The monk was in the pool. He was lit by a halo. He was kneeling. He was reading. Heavenly music and light came from the rocks. The shepherds struck the stone. The image of the Virgin appeared.
The Hermitage is only accessible by foot. You should prepare for a hike. It lasts between an hour and an hour and a half. The hike will take you through forests, caves, and mountain paths.
The Hermitage is open on weekends and public holidays. It is open from 10:30 to 14:30. There is an entry ticket.
A significant fraction of the Hermitage was built around the 13th century. The earliest parts date back to Roman times. Its history includes local tales and mystical legends.
The festivities of the Virgen de la Peña are an example of pagan festivals. They adapted to Christianity. All cultures with cereal traditions have held celebrations. These are at the end of harvesting. It is in the first half of September. People gathered to drink, dance, sing, and socialize. It was before the autumn rains.
The church decided these festivals needed a patron saint. The Virgen de la Peña was chosen. She has been the patron saint of the island since the mid-16th century.
Remember the story of faith, legend, and perseverance. It is etched into the very stones of the Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña. May it inspire you on your own journey.