Have you ever felt the whisper of history on the wind? Here at Ensenada de Jacomar you can. This secluded cove whispers tales of Jacomar Verneis a ruthless Norman conqueror. He left his mark across the Canary Islands. His “main residence” was on El Hierro. No one knows why this spot on Fuerteventura was named after him. First known as Punta de Jacomar then Casas de Jacomar it’s believed he used it as a safe haven. Many wanted him dead. Ensenada de Jacomar was incredibly difficult to reach from land. Only locals knew the way. Even today it remains hidden. From the sea the low-lying houses are almost invisible. The large deep bay was perfect for anchoring ships.
What exactly did Jacomar do here? We can only speculate. Fuerteventura didn’t offer him much. Perhaps he traded in North African slaves. That seems the most likely. Fuerteventura was a popular “transit point”. It even had its own chain forge. A blacksmith shop still exists today. It may also have served as a safe harbor to store loot a place of refuge. Fuerteventura had only about 1700 original inhabitants. They surrendered quickly during the conquest converting to Christianity immediately. Two zealous missionaries Le Verrier and Bontier accompanied Jean de Béthencourt. They skillfully showed the Majoreros the advantages of Christianity. This was particularly appealing if one wished to avoid becoming a slave. Christians could not be traded as slaves. This didn’t interest Mallorcan slave hunters. They continued their activities in the Canaries without royal permission. Castile already had authority problems with the Catalans.
Punta de Jacomar the powerful lava cliff at the beach of Ensenada de Jacomar is first mentioned in a Fuerteventura administrative document on March 2 1600. It appears on a map for the first time in 1779. Military engineer Andrés Amat de Tortosa hand-drew it. It features on Fuerteventura’s first printed map in 1786. You can even buy lithographs online from the Instituto Geográfico Nacional.
Jacomar Verneis likely built the first structures. Over the centuries a small fishing settlement developed. It was always only temporarily inhabited. A small saltworks operated here. Remnants can still be seen. The salt preserved the fish. The houses still standing are estimated to be 200 years old. The original families still own them. They maintain them with care using them as weekend retreats especially in summer. Traditional fishing grilling and relaxing take place here. Children swim near the houses. “Strangers” are eyed skeptically from afar but not unkindly. Especially if they wander through the settlement. Land ownership remains unclear as in many parts of Fuerteventura. Until the 1970s nobody wanted this “dead land”. As long as there are no disputes the “status quo” continues.
There’s a tiny chapel dedicated to Nuestra Señora Virgen del Carmen. It houses a wooden statue. On July 16th she’s taken by boat into the bay to request her assistance. This is part of a small fiesta. Another fiesta takes place on the summer solstice the Noche de San Juan. The best way to reach Casas de Jacomar is from Ensenada de Toneles. A lovely coastal path leads past small bays to the larger Ensenada de Jacomar. You’ll meet no one. The fishing houses and bay appear unexpectedly. It’s deserted except during the summer. The walk is particularly exciting for children. There is always something to see. It’s an adventurous treasure hunt for an old pirate’s nest. In calm waters you can swim and have a picnic. Enjoy your time at Ensenada de Jacomar.