Isn’t it ironic that a watchman statue could become a victim of theft? That’s the story of El Sereno. El Sereno stands in Glorieta de los Insurgentes. It is in Mexico City.
El Sereno, Spanish for The Watchman, is more than just a statue. It represents a piece of Mexico City’s history. The El Sereno statue was created by Víctor Manuel Villareal. It was unveiled in 1992. The statue depicts a watchman. This position once represented law enforcement in the city.
Back in colonial times, watchmen were essential. They maintained order. They ensured the safety of the capital’s residents. These early security figures patrolled the streets. They announced the time. They kept everything calm. “Las tres y todo sereno” they would announce. This translates to “Three o’clock and all is well”. This is how they earned the name El Sereno.
The first watchmen emerged in 1790. The Conde de Revillagigedo created the first group of lamplighters. He also made rules for lighting and guards. These guards carried essential tools. They had a staff and a whistle. They also had a lantern. They used a ladder. The guards carried oil and cloths. Eight corporals with swords oversaw them. The watchmen had to pass the word. From eleven at night until six in the morning, they announced the time every fifteen minutes. They also reported the weather.
Lauro E. Rosell described the watchman’s attire. He wore a semi-wide hat with a flattened crown. He wore a worn-out cashmere jacket. His trousers matched. At night, he carried a tin lantern. It was lit with turnip oil. A notched sword hung from his waist. In his right hand, he carried a club. Sometimes he used a leather whip.
The watchmen reported to government offices at dawn. They accounted for their clothing and equipment. They paid for it themselves. They restocked oil for their lanterns. By nine in the morning, they headed home. They needed to prepare for their nightly duties.
El Sereno at Glorieta de los Insurgentes originally had a lamp. It also had a plaque. The plaque read: “With this person on November 3, 1792, public safety officially begins in this capital.” Sadly, both the lamp and plaque vanished.
By 2024, the roundabout was in decline. It became a hotspot for crime. Homeless people sought shelter there. Graffiti covered El Sereno and other structures. In July 2024, the city government cleared the area. They began restoring El Sereno. They also rehabilitated the surrounding space. The restoration was complete by September 2024.
Imagine El Sereno standing here. He silently watches over the bustling city. He is a reminder of a bygone era. He stands as a symbol of security. El Sereno embodies the spirit of those who watched over Mexico City.