Was this Quito’s first church? Many believe El Belen holds that title. But the truth is more nuanced. El Belen’s story begins not with grand construction but with a humble humilladero. Built in 1612 this small roadside shrine stood outside the old city. It was called the Ermita de la Vera Cruz. It served travelers and indigenous shepherds. They came to pray at the foot of a calvary.
Over time the Ermita changed hands. Augustinian monks hoped to establish a retreat there. This followed the example of the Franciscans and Dominicans who had their own retreats nearby. The Dominicans eventually moved to a different location. The Ermita remained.
In 1787 a significant shift occurred. Juan Jose de Villalengua ordered the Ermita rebuilt. It was then that it took the name El Belen. A plaque near the church’s gate confirms the reconstruction date. The church’s simple design remained largely unchanged. It features two small towers. These are topped with glazed tile pyramids. A characteristic inverted V shape dominates the facade.
A popular myth wrongly claims El Belen as Quito’s first church. Historians disagree. The actual first church was a modest structure of tapia and straw. It stood where the Cathedral now stands. Another myth incorrectly places the decapitation of Viceroy Blasco Nuñez Vela at the Ermita. While the Ermita was close it was not the actual site. The Ermita was lost to the 1868 earthquake in Ibarra.
Today El Belen stands as a testament to Quito’s enduring faith. Its simple elegance speaks volumes. The church’s interior features a stunning 18th century altarpiece. It depicts the Coronation of the Virgin. Above the altar sits a silver reliquary. It’s adorned with a peacock-like tail. A crucifix and the Virgin Mary complete the scene. The Lord of Remedies statue stands nearby. Devotees flock here to seek healing. El Belen may not be Quito’s first church. But its enduring presence makes it a significant part of the city’s history and spiritual life.