“Is this really one of France’s oldest churches?” you might ask. Indeed, it is. u00c9glise Saint-Iru00e9nu00e9e stands as a testament to Lyon’s enduring Christian heritage. It is a building with its foundations in the Roman era.
u00c9glise Saint-Iru00e9nu00e9e is more than just a church. It is a historical landmark. The lower part of u00c9glise Saint-Iru00e9nu00e9e is one of the most ancient in France. The crypt dates back to the 9th century. This was the early Carolingian period. The church was rebuilt in the early 19th century. Work finished around 1830. This makes it a rare partially preserved monument from the High Middle Ages.
The story of u00c9glise Saint-Iru00e9nu00e9e begins with a Roman necropolis. This necropolis was active from the High Roman Empire through the Middle Ages. It stretched from the Trion district to the ancient Saint-Just basilica. Excavations in 2000 unearthed many Roman and early Christian tombs. These discoveries complemented earlier digs in the area. Some sarcophagi from this era are visible outside the church. They lean against the enclosure wall. They were likely unearthed in the 19th century. The most significant find was the sarcophagus of the Triumph of Bacchus. It was discovered in 1845.
The u00c9glise Saint-Iru00e9nu00e9e is located on the site of a mausoleum. This mausoleum housed relics of unknown origin in the late 5th century. These relics likely led to the recognition of local martyrs. They were Alexandre and u00c9pipode. The practice of distributing “the precious dust of the martyrs” occurred here. This was described in a homily from the late 5th century.
Originally, the structure may have been for private devotion. This was for Alexandre and u00c9pipode. Later, an official public cult of Iru00e9nu00e9e was established. During the construction of the crypt between the 10th and 11th centuries, a mosaic was installed. Protestants destroyed it in 1562.
Avit, the Archbishop of Vienne, dedicated the church. This was in the early 6th century. It was dedicated to Saint-Jean-Baptiste. Gru00e9goire de Tours described the crypt. He resided in Lyon between 551 and 573. The crypt housed the relics of Saint Iru00e9nu00e9e under an altar. This was next to the relics of Alexandre and u00c9pipode.
In 1562, Protestant troops devastated the church during the Wars of Religion. They stole relics. They severely damaged the facade. They nearly destroyed the crypt. The church was left abandoned. Restoration began in 1584.
During the French Revolution, the church became a barn. The building was gradually abandoned. The revival of saint worship in the 19th century brought it back into favor. It was rebuilt in 1824. The crypt was renovated in 1863.
The current building reflects 19th-century styles. The upper church showcases a neoclassical design. It includes Byzantine influences. The crypt remains well-preserved from the 10th century. Some elements from the 5th century survive, including at least one arch.
The church stands at the corner of Rue des Macchabu00e9es and Place Saint-Iru00e9nu00e9e. It opens onto an inner courtyard. Roman-era sarcophagi are displayed here. The Catholic church adjoins a Byzantine-rite Christian church. The high church’s stained glass windows and statues date from between 1824 and the early 20th century.
In 2022, archaeological digs exposed the walls of the choir. They revealed its origins dating back to the 7th century. Archaeologists are currently searching for the remains of Saint Iru00e9nu00e9e under the altar.
A calvary, dating from the 18th century, stands behind the choir. It overlooks the Sau00f4ne. It provides a panoramic view of Lyon. It is one of the few calvaries remaining in a major city.
u00c9glise Saint-Iru00e9nu00e9e stands not only as a building but as a layered narrative. This narrative encompasses Roman burials, early Christian worship, and medieval relics. It shows Lyon’s rich religious past. As you leave this place, consider the echoes of history. These echoes resonate within these ancient walls.