East Gate

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“Wife’s Gate”. Ever heard of it? That’s what some called the Little East Gate. We are standing before what was once the Big East Gate, or Chaozongmen. It stood as a vital entry point in Shanghai’s old city wall.

The story of this gate is intertwined with Shanghai’s growth. The birth of Shanghai dates back to 1291. It grew for centuries. Coastal pirates prompted the construction of a defence wall around the city in 1553. The wall was built in just three months. It had six gates. The Big East Gate was one of them.

Imagine the scene. Invaders would have to cross the moat. They had to pass a drawbridge near one of the city gates. Guards locked the gates at eight in the evening. Those who lingered had to bribe the guards. Some waited outside until sunrise. They were in the company of bamboo cages containing heads of executed criminals.

The Big East Gate had a water gate next to it. Zhaojia Creek passed into the city under it. The creek was always crowded with boats. Navigation was nearly impossible. People travelling inland avoided the walled city.

One local gazetteer noted the problems. Rich people built up the embankments. They narrowed the creeks. Droughts made common folk cry from thirst. Heavy rainfall overfilled the gutters. Dirty water was one problem. Fire hazard was another.

In 1860, another north-facing gate was added. This eased access to foreign settlements. In 1906, inner city creeks began to be filled. Three new gates were cut through the wall. In 1912, the wall started to be torn down. The moat was filled and paved.

Western travellers found the city wall fascinating. Rev. C. E. Darwent suggested a walking route on top of the city wall. The whole route was about 4 km long.

Another gate nearby called the Little East Gate was important. All the foot and boat traffic went through it. The gate’s official name was Treasure Belt Gate. When the city wall was built in 1553, its trajectory went across private properties. Many citizens did not want to give up their land. But the Mei clan gave up their properties. Lu Shen’s wife headed the clan. Bricks from these buildings were used in construction of the wall. Because Lu Shen’s wife sponsored the Treasure Belt Gate, it was called Wife’s Gate.

The city wall made a comeback in 2006. During demolition works, a seventy metre section of the original city wall was found. Developers rebuilt part of it.

Today, little remains of the Big East Gate. The city has transformed. Yet, remembering its story reminds us of Shanghai’s resilience. It also reminds us of its constant evolution. The East Gate is a gateway to understanding Shanghai’s past.

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