Do you see that ancient stone standing before you? It’s not just any stone. It is the Dazaifu Temmangu Stele. This stele marks a place steeped in history and reverence.
The Dazaifu Temmangu Stele stands as a silent witness to the story of Sugawara no Michizane. He lived from 845 to 903. Michizane was a gifted scholar and poet. He even served as an advisor to Emperor Uda. However, political intrigue led to his exile in Kyushu.
Legend says Michizane was favored by the gods. He angered the powerful Fujiwara clan. This led to his banishment. Despite his exile, Michizane continued to study. He died at the age of 57. The Dazaifu Temmangu Stele is more than just a marker. It signifies the final resting place of a great man.
When Michizane died, an ox cart carried his body. The ox stopped near a Buddhist monastery and refused to move. This was seen as a sign. Michizane was buried there. His follower, Umasake no Yasuyuki, built a small shrine in 905. The shrine grew into the Dazaifu Tenmangu we know today.
Soon after Michizane’s death, misfortune struck the Fujiwara clan. Five members died. One was even killed by lightning. People believed Michizane’s spirit was seeking revenge. To appease him, the Fujiwara clan restored his rank posthumously. Michizane became Tenjin. He is now the deity of learning and the arts.
The Dazaifu Temmangu Stele connects us to these events. It reminds us of Michizane’s life and legacy. The shrine spans over 3,000 acres. It includes the main shrine, auxiliary shrines, and beautiful gardens. The main shrine dates back to 1591. It is an Important Cultural Property.
Notice the two ponds shaped like the kanji character for heart. These ponds add to the serenity of the grounds. The shrine is famous for its 6,000 plum trees. One special tree, Tobiume, is said to have flown from Kyoto to be with Michizane.
Along the path to the shrine, you will find shops selling umegae mochi. This grilled azuki bean cake is stamped with a plum tree flower. Legend says an old caretaker named Jomyoni offered these snacks to Michizane.
The Homotsuden houses important treasures. These include ancient documents and artifacts. The Kan’en is a tenth-century history and ethnography and is a National Treasure. There are also Heian and Kamakura period swords.
Currently, the main hall is undergoing renovations. This is the first time in 124 years. A temporary hall designed by Sou Fujimoto is in use during the renovations. It features 46 types of plants on its roof.
The Dazaifu Temmangu Stele is a starting point. It is a gateway to understanding the rich history of this sacred place. Take a moment to reflect on Michizane’s life. Consider his impact on Japanese culture and education.