“Affordable, repairable, and nimble” are the words echoing through the streets. These words describe the beloved Vocho in Colonia Cuautepec de Madero Barrio Bajo. This northern Mexico City neighborhood in Gustavo A Madero is “Vocholandia”.
Cuautepec de Madero Barrio Bajo sits high on the northern edge of Mexico City. It borders the State of Mexico and lies close to the Reclusorio Norte prison. The New York Times documented this area’s love for the Volkswagen Beetle. People still trust the original Vocho. They praise it for its price, ease of repair, and ability to navigate steep streets.
Here in Colonia Cuautepec de Madero Barrio Bajo, Vochos serve as informal taxis. Public transport is limited here. These sputtering, bulbous cars are always around. The obsession remains even after production stopped in 2003. The New Beetle failed to impress most locals.
Yolanda Ocampo owns a 1982 Vocho. It sits outside the pharmacy where she works. She told NYT that owning a Vocho challenges gender stereotypes. Men often said women couldn’t drive the iconic Sedan 1. Eduardo Jiménez received a Vocho as a gift from his son. He’d used it as a taxi. The 73-year-old believes its popularity comes from its practicality.
The rear engine helps it climb Cuautepec’s steep hills. Uriel Mondragón is a local mechanic. He says 40% of his clients own a Vocho. For many in Colonia Cuautepec de Madero Barrio Bajo, the Vocho represents more. It passes down through generations.
Cuautepec is divided into Barrio Alto and Barrio Bajo. Houses spread across a valley and up the hillsides. The area’s difficult terrain complicates transit. Yet, people have visited since pre-Columbian times. Chichimecas, Toltecs, and Aztecs once occupied this area. Franciscans built the “Preciosa Sangre de Cristo” church in the 18th century. It’s famous as the filming location for the 1948 film “Los Tres Huastecos” starring Pedro Infante.
Today, Cuautepec de Madero Barrio Bajo is known as a commercial zone. You can find almost anything here. Its taxis are very distinctive. They are often “bochos” without a front seat. Their small size helps them climb steep hills that other cars struggle with.
In recent years, Cuautepec faced challenges with crime. In the second decade of the 21st century, Cuautepec was a red zone for crime. Homicides were high. But government efforts have reduced crime by about 60% since 2019.
The Cablebús now helps people get around. The ride from Indios Verdes to upper Cuautepec is 7.8 kilometers. It used to take over half an hour by public transport during rush hour. Now, the Cablebús completes the journey in about 29 minutes.
Comprising about 47 colonias, Cuautepec covers 2,419 hectares. It houses over half a million people. That’s just over 50% of the population of Gustavo A. Madero. Despite being part of Mexico City, residents feel abandoned by politicians. They only remember the area during elections when they fill it with propaganda. Still, the Vocho remains a symbol of resilience. It represents resourcefulness in the face of challenges.