“A hidden gem,” some might whisper. The Cité Verte is indeed one of Paris’s best-kept secrets. Let me tell you about this remarkable place.
The Cité Verte is a unique artists’ colony in the 13th arrondissement. You will find it at 147 Rue Léon-Maurice Nordmann. Dating back to the early 20th century, it began as part of a religious congregation’s property. This congregation was known as the “Fidèles Compagnes de Jésus.”
Imagine this ruelle transformed. Workshops were built using salvaged materials. These materials came from a demolition company located on the premises. One workshop even features a plaster facade from a theater.
The Cité Verte soon attracted artists and craftsmen. Painters found inspiration here. A talented organ builder, who later restored Notre-Dame’s organs, also worked here. Sculptors like Mario Busato-Strauss and even Henry Moore called this place home.
But the Cité Verte faced a threat in 1977. The religious order planned to sell the land. They wanted to build apartments in place of the workshops. The artists and artisans formed a defense association. Henri Cadiou, a painter who rented a studio here, stepped in. He had also saved the nearby Cité Fleurie. Cadiou suggested naming this passage “Cité Verte.”
A two-year battle ensued against developers. Finally, President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing intervened. He classified the Cité Verte as a protected site. The planned buildings at number 149 were constructed. However, the passage at number 147 with its workshops was preserved.
Today, the Cité Verte remains a private passage. It is closed to non-residents. Most of its inhabitants are artists. It is a true haven of peace. It is tucked away from the city’s hustle and bustle. Some describe it as a little slice of paradise.
Behind an ordinary gate, a green alley awaits. The artists’ workshops are a sight to behold. Remember to be respectful. The only noise usually tolerated here is that of birds. Unless, of course, friends are enjoying lunch under an umbrella. In that case, wish them “bon appétit!”
The Cité Verte was almost lost forever. In the late 1970s, the congregation needed to sell a large plot of land. A developer wanted to build a large complex on the site. Henri Cadiou believed that a place without a name could easily be erased. So, he named the artists’ colony “la Cité Verte.” This act helped to save it.
To enter, patience is required. You might need to rely on the kindness of a resident. Once inside, you will discover lush greenery. The colorful facades will transport you far from Paris.
So, as you stand here, think about the battles fought. Think about the art created. The Cité Verte stands as a testament to the power of community. It shows the importance of preserving artistic heritage. It is a secret garden. It is a vibrant reminder of the creative spirit thriving in Paris.