Interestingly, St. George’s Cathedral isn’t some grand, imposing structure. Instead, it is a relatively small church. But don’t let its size fool you. This cathedral is the principal Eastern Orthodox church in Istanbul. Let’s step inside the Church of St. George.
Since around 1600, this has been the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople. The leader here is regarded as “first among equals” in the Eastern Orthodox Church. Many also see him as the spiritual leader of 300 million Orthodox Christians worldwide. This makes the Church of St. George a truly important site.
The location of the Church of St. George is in the Fener district. This is northwest of old Constantinople’s historic center. You might wonder why such an important church is so small. The answer lies in the Ottoman Empire’s Islamic laws. These laws said that non-Islamic buildings must be smaller than mosques. Before the Ottoman conquest in 1453, the Patriarchal cathedral was Hagia Sophia.
Now, about the church itself. The Patriarchal Cathedral Church of St. George is dedicated to Saint George. He was a Christian martyr. Important services take place here. The patriarch consecrates the chrism here too. This holy oil is used in sacraments. This happens on Holy and Great Thursday when it is needed. Because of this, the church is also known as the “Patriarchal Church of the Great Myrrh”.
The church opens to the public from 8:00 am to 4:30 pm. Be aware that there is strict security screening in place. Pilgrims and tourists visit from Greece and other Orthodox countries. Behind the church are the Patriarchate offices and library.
The Church of St. George has been rebuilt many times. Little of its original structure remains. In 1597, Matthew II moved the Patriarchate to this location. It was formerly the convent of St. George in the Phanar. The Phanar district then became the recognized center of Greek Christian life in the city.
Patriarch Timothy II rebuilt and enlarged the church in 1614. Later, Callinicus II reconstructed it again. A fire badly damaged the Church of St. George in the early 18th century. Jeremias III started restoration work in 1720. Paisius II continued this work.
Another great fire caused severe damage in 1738. Gregory V began large-scale restoration in 1797. The church’s current state largely dates from this rebuilding. It has a three-aisled basilica plan. There are three semicircular apses on the east side. A transverse narthex is on the west.
Inside, colonnades divide the space into three aisles. Tall ebony wood pews line the columns. This leaves plenty of space for the liturgy. Behind the altar is the synthrone. This is a semicircle of seats for the archpriests. A higher marble throne is in the center for the Patriarch.
Gregory VI raised the roof to its present height. This is when the neo-Classical marble doorway was added. This makes the front exterior look different from other Orthodox churches. Joachim III carried out the last major rebuilding. He replaced the sanctuary pavement and renovated the synthrone.
In 1204, bones of Saints Basil the Great, Gregory the Theologian, and John Chrysostom were looted during the Fourth Crusade. Pope John Paul II returned some of these bones to the Church of St. George in 2004.
Today, the Church of St. George serves as a symbolic center. It is a place of pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians. Donations from Orthodox communities in other countries support the church financially.
So as you leave this modest yet magnificent place, remember its long history. Remember that the Church of St. George stands as a beacon of faith. Its influence stretches far beyond its physical size.