Chiesa di San Giovanni dei Napoletani

Did the shimmering majolica tiles of Chiesa di San Giovanni dei Napoletani catch your eye? They certainly add a splash of color to this corner of Palermo. This late-Baroque, almost neoclassical, church has a fascinating history tied to the city’s vibrant mercantile past. Chiesa di San Giovanni dei Napoletani wasn’t always here. Its story begins in 1527 with a group of Neapolitan merchants. They formed a confraternity dedicated to St. John the Baptist and established a church near the harbor. This location made sense. It was close to the bustling activity of their trade. However, Emperor Charles V had other plans. He ordered their original church demolished to expand the harbor fortifications. Imagine their dismay! Undeterred, the merchants began construction of Chiesa di San Giovanni dei Napoletani on this very spot in 1527, completing it in 1617. The church’s exterior is rather understated, especially the facade facing Via Vittorio Emanuele. It’s designed to smooth the sharp angle of the building on this corner. However, the southeastern flank, facing Piazza Marina’s Giardino Garibaldi, has a more pronounced presence. Inside Chiesa di San Giovanni dei Napoletani, slender marble columns divide the nave from the aisles. The apse houses two chapels: one dedicated to the Holy Spirit and the other to the Glory of God the Father. Look closely at the stucco decorations. These restrained, almost neoclassical adornments are the work of Procopio Serpotta, who also crafted the statues of the four virtues in the apse. Prudence and Temperance stand on the left, while Justice and Fortitude occupy the right. The church once housed an altarpiece of the Holy Trinity by Giuseppe Albina and a ceiling fresco by Giuseppe Salerno, depicting St. John the Baptist. Sadly, these are no longer present. Over the centuries, Chiesa di San Giovanni dei Napoletani has changed hands. In 1925, it came under the care of the Confraternita della Caritá. For a time, it even served as storage for artwork from the nearby Galleria Regionale di Palazzo Abatellis. Today, having been reconsecrated, it’s under the stewardship of the Order of Knights of the Temple of Jerusalem. Chiesa di San Giovanni dei Napoletani stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the Neapolitan merchants who, despite setbacks, built this beautiful sanctuary in the heart of Palermo.